The examples in this video are made using the Keepers Dolly Duds Study Hall pattern.

The fabrics for the Jumper and blouse are featured in the Roxbury Pixie Pack Fabric Kit. The Blouse shown with the pantsuit is made from he Liberty Tana Lawn fabric in the Daisytown Pixie Pack Fabric kit. The pants suit features the periwinkle corduroy that's included in the Hill Country Pixie Pack Fabrics kit the kit includes a fat quarter 18 x 28 , it is enough to make the View A pants suit as long as all the lining pieces are cut from the blouse fabric. Careful placement is required to be sure you can get it all to fit, but only the pants front and back are cut two so if you do those first, then open up the remaining fabric, everything else fits!

Tips For Success: Unlike most piled fabrics, Corduroy is actually pretty easy to work with, but there are still a few things to keep in mind so that your project doesn't go awry.

1. Prewash the fabric-With corduroy, however, it's not a good idea to skip the prewash since it has a tendency to shrink considerably along the length of the fabric... quickly turning a pair of pants into capris.  What is nice about corduroy, is that a prewash can actually make the fabric look even better as it lifts and fluffs the thread tufts, giving it a softer look.  For this project, I ran my fabric through an express wash with no detergent then popped it in the dryer. 

2. How to find the nap-Before I start laying out the pattern pieces, I need to find the nap.  I do this by brushing along the cords with my hand. The nap should feel smooth when I swipe down. Once you find the nap, be sure that you lay out all your pattern pieces so that the nap runs from top to bottom.

3. Linings and Facings-Because corduroy is a bit bulky, it's a good idea to use a lighter weight fabric for facings and linings if bulk is a concern. Lightweight fabric like a Tana Lawn work great!
4. Stitching Issues-The piles and the nap of the corduroy have a tendency to shift against each while sewing.  If you are having trouble with this, there are a few things you can do to add some stability:   
   • Use plenty of pins or baste pieces together before you sew
   • Sew seams in the direction of the nap to help reduce shifting.
   • Raise the presser foot with the needle down every few inches. This will release tension on the fabric and allow it to settle back into place.
   • A walking foot, Teflon foot or roller foot can reduce shifting by helping both layers of fabric move together.
   • If your corduroy is especially shifty, you can place a piece of tissue paper between the layers of fabric and underneath the fabric on the sewing machine to help get a little more control.  Then, simply tear the tissue paper away when you are finished.
   •   If you are still having problems, you can use a temporary fabric spray adhesive along the seamline on the right side of the fabric.  
5. Pressing-Always press corduroy with the wrong side up to with on top of a towel or another piece of corduroy underneath to help prevent crushing the cords.  Because corduroy has a tendency to pick up the texture of the pressing surface, I prefer to use a piece of corduroy underneath because it has the same texture.  Press lightly with plenty of steam.  If you press too hard the impressions of the seam allowance will show on the other side.
6. Hems and Topstitching-Because corduroy is a bit bulkier than other fabrics, a double-fold hem is not always a good option.  Instead, cover  the raw edges by serging or with a bias strip of lightweight fabric, ribbon, or lace.  Then, finish with a single-fold hem.   Topstitching really stands out when sewn across the cords and can be a great  way to secure your hem.  Depending on your project, this may be a good opportunity to use a decorative stitch for a little added detail.  If you prefer an invisible hem, the textured surface of the corduroy makes it really easy to hide hand-sewn stitches.

Hi Everyone! I hope you enjoyed our discussion all about sewing with corduroy fabrics. We had a good time discussing things! I also hope you've had time to watch Donna's video about all the different types of corduroy fabric available to us! If not, be sure to go back and check it out!

In this next video, we're building on that information with a look at using the direction of the wale in creative ways!

First I'll kick things off with a look at a classic design, the Janes Shoe Pattern, that's designed with the use of stripes or corduroy in mind. The direction on the grain of the pattern pieces uses the stripe of the fabric to define the design detail fo the shoe! Easy peasy, jsut follow the pattern, pick your fabric and create some adorable shoes that are highlighted by the use of corduroy!

Next, we visit Shari in her studio to see how she's shifted the grain lines on the pattern pieces of her Mary Brooks Cloche Hat to add more dimension and design emphasis to the piece!

Then we wrap it ip with a look at a project from Donna using two different widths of wale in a fun pattern modification for the Art Deco Bags pattern.

Here's a link to the three patterns featured:

Are you feeling inspired? Now it's your turn! Grab some corduroy fabric and make something fun & interesting for your doll collection!

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the topics, Sewing With Corduroy! Shari and Donna will be joining me as we explore this unique fabric! Join us for a fun month-long course!

The course will be divided into three installments with the first two videos shown in the same week:

Week 1: We kick things off with a 3-way discussion all about corduroy! Jump in and follow along as we chat about the fabric, how we like to use it, ways to care for it, and more! Then jump right into the second video, Fabric Defined, where Donna does a deep dive with an in-depth look at the different types of corduroy available.

Week 2: Shari Donna and I will all show you an example of using the directional wale creatively!

Week 3: In this final installment, Shari will demo some of the things we've discussed as she works to sew the Keepers Dolly Duds Study Hall outfits.

Let's jump in to Part 1 together! We invite you to grab a cup of coffee, sit back, and join us for a conversation all about corduroy...

 Tips for Sewing With Corduroy Fabric:

• Pay attention to the direction of the nap. The fabric will sew differently if the nap is smooth up or smooth down. Be sure all pieces are cut laying in the same direction!
• Wash and dry corduroy before using it for your project. We don't always specify this, but in this case we ran a few tests and all agreed that you should wash/dry to avoid being disappointed after by shrinking pants and skirt lengths or dye transfer. Wash in lukewarm or cool water, and dry on low heat. The fabric will likely shrink about 1/2" to a full inch along the length of the wale.
• Press with caution! Always press corduroy from the wrong side. If you are using a wider wale cord, then you might want to try using a piece of cord right side up underneath your project piece to keep the wale nice and fluffy.
• In general a sew-in interfacing might be best. If needed, a fusible interfacing will likely crush the wale. If sewing something like the Snuggle and Store Tote, try By Annies "Soft and Stable" foam stabilizer. It is a sew-in product that added structure to something like a bag or purse.

Now let's move on to Part 2 for the next installment...

Join Donna as she discusses the qualities of various corduroy fabrics and shares how the type in her collection could be used in projects for dolls.

The unique feature of corduroy is the rows of pile.  Corduroy fabric is woven in a special way which creates rows of “floating” threads which are then cut by a special machine process. These cut threads are what create the rows of pile and the tiny little fluffy parts that get everywhere.

The rows of pile are called wales.  And the width of the wale is the main thing that is used to describe the type of corduroy.

The number, whether it’s 8 wale or 21 wale, is the number of wales or these vertical stripes, per INCH.  If it’s an 8 wale corduroy, it will have 8 stripes of the pile within one inch.  So the higher the number, the finer the lines.  The lower the number, the wider the lines. 

According to the industry, standard corduroy fabric has 11 wales per inch, but if a piece of corduroy has anywhere between 8 to 13 wales it is usually still considered to be standard corduroy.  

The 8 wale corduroy is a thicker fabric than the 16 wale, and the 16 is thicker than the 21 wale.  So the wider wale ones are going to have more bulk at any seamlines and the fine wale fabrics are going to be much softer and easier to handle.

The Pixie Pack corduroy is super soft and super tiny and just perfect for doll clothes.  You could use this for most any type of garment for dolls that you might see made in corduroy for humans.

The 16 wale weight would be okay for some doll clothing but it is a bit stiffer, so would probably be best for things you might use a denim for, like pants or A line skirts.  Maybe a jacket or accessories such as tote bags or luggage.

The wide wale corduroy is probably not something you want to use for doll clothing, but it might work well for something like the Snuggle and Store Tote Bag from Liberty Jane or the Modern Sofa by QT Pi Pattern Company.

Donna uses her Art Deco Bags pattern as a base for some cute corduroy bags and her upcoming Prima Bells pattern for some groovy pants.

If you like to visit thrift shops, keep an eye out for clothing made from fun corduroy fabric that can be upcycled into items for your doll.