Hi Everyone! I'm Shari Fuller, the designer behind Thimbles and Acorns! Welcome to Part 3 of this month's topic, Sewing Perfect Gathers. I am glad so many of you found last week's gathering technique helpful. The fuss of gathering long stretches of fabric neatly and evenly has always been a challenge for me, figuring out how to do it with flat elastic was a real game-changer.
This week, I have a special technique that makes it easier to gather curved edges. Gathering along a curve presents a unique challenge, especially when working with narrow seam allowances. Because the inside and outside row of gathering stitches are different lengths, they draw up unevenly which can cause the fabric to twist. All too often, the twisting will pull a small tuft of the raw edge down between the gathers in the fabric where it will remain hidden until it rears its ugly head in the seamline. Sewing I love, seam ripping... not so much.
A while back, I decided enough was enough and figured there must be a better way. After much trial and error, I discovered using a zigzag stitch for the top row of gathering stitches helped to stabilize the raw edge of the fabric so that it didn't get pulled down into the seamline. This method is perfect for making puffed sleeves and works best on light to medium weight fabrics.
We'll be demonstrating these methods as basic tutorial exercises on small scraps of fabric to help illustrate how the basic techniques and methods are used at a smaller scale. Follow along to understand the process, hopefully watching us in action will clarify any concerns or issues you may have with these types of techniques.
I encourage you to watch the video for a full in-depth look at the technique!
Here's a brief summary of the technique:
Gathering on a curve can be a bit tricky, especially when you are using narrow seam allowances because the basting lines are different lengths inside and out. The problem this creates is that the gathering stitches can't be drawn evenly so the top edge of the fabric is prone to twisting, creating puckers and pulling raw edges of the fabric into the seamline. Using a zigzag stitch in place of the top straight stitch can help alleviate this problem. How does this work? When the zigzag thread is drawn, it creates create a push pull effect that helps to keep the top edge of the fabric upright while the lower straight basting stitch keeps the gathers closest to the seamline straight and even.
Here is how you do it. Set the width of your zigzag between 2 and 2.5 mm and the stitch length to half of what the lower basting stitch will be. For example, if your straight basting stitch will be 4 set your zigzag stitch length to 2.
Stitch using the ¼ inch seam guide. The zigzag stitch should be centered inside the ¼ inch seam allowance.
Set your stitch width back to zero and your stitch length to the proper length for your project. Stitch just inside the seam allowance underneath the zigzag stitch. Do not stitch over the zigzag stitch.
Draw the bobbin threads of both rows of stitching. You will need to draw the zigzag more to straighten the bobbin thread and create the push-pull effect.
Arrange the gathers evenly. That's it! Try it out and tell me what you think.
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Suggested Patterns For this Topic:
Week Three Task:
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In part 4 we wrap up the topic with a closer look at sewing the tiny curves along facings and armscyes (pronounced "arms-eye"). These curved seamlines can be found in many of the doll clothes patterns on larougetdelisle, especially the standard armscye. My hope is that after watching how I sew these seamlines, you're able to apply the techniques to your own projects and sew tiny curves with confidence!
In the video posted below - Facings and Armscyes - I show you the methods I use when sewing a curved facing and a standard armscye seam line. There are several ways you could choose to sew these seamlines, but these are the methods I use most often when sewing these tiny curves. They've been illustrated in many of the LJ patterns, and I think they may be pretty straightforward, but seeing something demonstrated usually teaches the technique better than a photo. I hope what I've shared helps you to gain confidence in sewing tiny facings and armscyes!
Video Timeline:
Pattern Overview (designs that feature facings)
Part Four Task:
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In part 3 we move along and take a closer look at sewing curves and corners on collars. Tiny collars can be tricky enough because of their size, but add in the need to sew smooth curves or precisely pointed corners and you might just be saying - "No Way!" Let's conquer that fear together and turn those nays onto yeas!
I've worked with many types of collars over the years and no longer fear those tiny seams and matched center front edges. I 'm excited to share what I've learned with you!
There are two videos posted below - Curves and Corners - Collars and a Neck Binding Tutorial demonstrated on the Kings Canyon Peplum Top. Both videos include the tips and tricks I use when sewing curves and corners on collars. I think they may be pretty straightforward, but seeing something demonstrated usually teaches the technique better than a photo. I hope what I've shared helps you to gain confidence in sewing tiny collars and neck bindings!
Video Timeline:
Pattern Overview (designs that feature collars)
Part Three Task:
Next Tuesday - Week 4: Specialty Facings and more...
]]>Welcome back! This week we continue with our Culotte Jumpsuit sew along, focusing on the leg portion and then finishing up the garment. As with most garments, there are curves and corners along the way, so let's jump in and finish up our projects together!
There are two videos posted below - Sewing The Culotte Jumpsuit: Part 2 and a Quick Tips tutorial on how to sew a curved seamline to a straight seamline. Both videos include the tips and tricks I use when sewing curves and corners. Some may seem pretty standard and familiar while others may seem a bit unusual - that's the fun of sewing! We all learn in different ways and sometimes use different methods and techniques to accomplish the same thing. I hope the things I'm sharing benefit you in your sewing journey!
Video Timeline:
Pattern Overview (designs that feature princess seams and sweetheart necklines):
Week One task:
Next Tuesday - Week 3: A closer look at corners and curves on collars.
]]>Hi Everyone! Let's talk about - Sewing Curves and Corners! Both of these seamlines are a staple in most garment construction. You might find curved seamlines in a princess seam, a sweetheart neckline, or standard armscye. They add a beautiful element of design detail as well as shape and structure when they are used. The most common corner is likely a collar, but you can also find this seamline on waistbands, bindings, and center back openings. A well-sewn corner can make or break an outfit! Not only do you need to sew it precisely, generally there are two that meet side by side, so mirroring an exact replica is key!
Throughout this 4 part topic, we will go over a variety of sewing techniques for sewing both curved seamlines and nicely pointed corners. My hope is that the techniques taught will inspire confidence to make a variety of designs that include these beautiful details!
I'll be demonstrating these techniques while walking you through a step by step sew along for the Liberty Jane Culotte Jumpsuit pattern. It will be broken apart into a few sections throughout the month. This week we will focus on the bodice.
Over the course of this 4 part topic we will cover:
There are so many different seamlines to explore. It's going to be a fun month!
Are you ready? Let's go...
In the videos posted below, I share with you an overview of the month-long topic and then take a deep dive into our first tutorial - Sewing The Culotte Jumpsuit (Princess seams and the Sweetheart Neckline). These techniques are great basic skills to master! Many of the patterns available include step by step instructions for these techniques as well. Experimenting with the techniques and figuring out which method works best for you and your fabric choice is the key to success!
If you're looking for some beginner basics for sewing curved seamlines, be sure to take a quick look at the Sewing Academy Video: 2.2 Sewing basics Sewing Seams (password PixieFaire) at 12:50 there are a few demonstrations of sewing curved seamlines and tips on trimming the seam allowances.
Pattern Overview (designs that feature princess seams and sweetheart necklines):
Video Timeline:
Week One task:
Next Tuesday - Week 2: Part 2 of the Sew Along - sewing the legs and finishing the back opening. Plus a few other curved seam demonstrations.
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