Hi Everyone! Welcome to part 2 of sewing hems with decorative stitches! Today I am going to demonstrate the use of the crescent stitch as the hemline for the cut off shorts. This delicate tiny detail adds a lot of interest to a basic design! I also have a few examples of sewing different decorative stitches stacked in rows to create another interesting design element. I encourage you to try this out! It's a fun way to add your own unique touch to your garments!

Are you ready? Let's go...

Patterns used in this weeks video examples:

Liberty Jane Jeans Bundle - also available in other sizes Hearts For Hearts Girls, WellieWishers, A Girl For All Time, BFC Ink, Kidz N Cats, Journey Girls, Ellowyne Wilde, and Bitty Baby. Click the image to go to the desired size. Special note - the Barbie Fashion Doll size is a sneak peek, the pattern is in the final stages of production and will be released soon!

Week Two task:

• Watch the videos and follow along to practice this stitch on your own.
• Grab your sewing machine manual (or simply google search your machine model and "crescent or scallop stitch") to figure out which stitch selection to use. 
• Cut a 6-inch by 6-inch square of fabric to create a stitch sampler. Test out the stitch width at the various widths to see how they look and find an appropriate scale for your garment.
• Repeat the sample to test out the stitch length. Keep these for future reference!
• Test out sewing the fabric on its own and sewing with spray starch or use of a stabilizer. 
• Select your project pattern. We used the LJ Jean Cut off Shorts in a few different sizes, but you can choose any pattern that has hems!
• Mark your hem allowance and then position your fabric under the presser foot being sure that the marked line is aligned with the center guide to ensure that the stitch will h.ave enough room to stitch out completely.
• Trim off the excess fabric around each scallop to finish the hem. 
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Part 1 Tutorial - The Shell Tuck Edge Stitch:

What is the Crescent Stitch?

The Crescent Stitch is a decorative stitch that can be used alone or in combination with other decorative stitches to create unique embellishments. It uses a zigzag stitch to create a delicate scalloped edge. On a computerized machine, the settings will be made automatically, but you can adjust them to get the desired scale of your scallop. 

Do I need special attachments or tools to sew this stitch?

This is a great decorative stitch to sew with because it doesn't require special accessories! You use your standard sewing machine foot (for a zigzag or satin stitch). Choose your needle and thread based on your fabric choice. This is a great opportunity to use decorative rayon or metallic threads to really add some pop to your garment!

Resources:

If you're interested in more decorative stitches and how to use them, I recommend this book - Super Stitches Sewing by Nicole Vasbinder. This essential guide to both machine and hand stitches will teach you how to use any and every stitch for professional-looking seams, hems, gathers, darts, and more. Unlock your full sewing potential with 57 machine stitches, 18 hand stitches, and tips to choose the correct needles, threads, and sewing machine accessories, complete with detailed step-by-step tutorials and illustrations.

Next Tuesday - Part 3: Shari has an exciting decorative stitch demo to share!

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 4 - For this final installment of Sewing The Denim Jacket we will introduce some pattern drafting skills and add the element of fur to create a "Fur-Lined Denim Jacket"! This style can work great for both boys and girls. The fur lining can be done with a classic faux fur, a soft fleece, or even a vibrant pop of color! The choice is yours, the possibilities are endless!

The tutorial videos are demonstrated on the 18" size pattern. If you want to modify one of the other sizes of the denim jacket, you can use this same technique with any of those sizes too!

In the video posted below, I walk you through the modifications to the Front Yoke and Inside Front pattern pieces and then show you the steps to take to add this modification into the existing Denim jacket Pattern Instructions.

The modification to this design are:

• The Front Yoke and Inside Front will be modified and a third piece (The Front Facing) will be created. This new piece will be cut from the fur.
• The Collar piece will be cut 1 denim cut 1 fur.
• All other pieces will be cut from the denim fabric as directed.
• Sew the Denim Jacket according to the instruction up to Step 23 (using either the faux or flatfelled seam style), then watch the video to see how to attach the facing and finish up the jacket.

Note - this style would be super cute made in a corduroy instead of denim!

Pattern Overview:

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week Four task:

• It's time for a fashion show! I'd really love to see some Denim Jackets posted in the Facebook group :) Style yours up and show us what you've been working on!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3 -Let's mix things up by adding a few elements of a hoodie to make a cute "Denim Jacket Hoodie"! This style is pretty popular and adds a fun sporty look to the classic style. It's a fun way to mix fabrics and colors to create different looks.

The tutorial videos are demonstrated on the 18" size pattern. We've used the hood piece from the LJ Ruched Hoodie pattern.  If you want to modify one of the other sizes of the denim jacket, look for a hoodie pattern in that size to "borrow" the hood piece from. (Or click over the How To Make A Hood Like A Minion Blog Post to see ideas on how to draft your own hood piece.)

In the videos posted below, you'll see tow variations of this idea. The first, simply replace the collar with a hood and the sleeves are made with the knit (still cut from the existing pattern piece). The second adds the hood layered on top of the collar and adds an additional ribbed waistband piece along the bottom. Both styles look great. I encourage you to try on or both today!

Pattern Overview:

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 
• Liberty Jane Ruched Hoodie (for the hood piece)

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week Three task:

• I know it's a busy week - but if you're working on sewing projects this would be a fun one to squeeze in! Maybe it could be a gift for someone on your list! 
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 3: The Fur Lined Denim Jacket Hack.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to part 2 - the full sew-along tutorial. Now that you've had some time to practice some of the sewing techniques used in the pattern design, we can jump right in and begin making our jackets.

The sew along video is demonstrated on using the pieces from the 14.5" Wellie size pattern. The techniques are the same no matter which size you are making. 

Special Note - The pattern includes cut lines and instructions to make the jacket with flat felled seams (fully enclosed) or faux felled seams (exposed seam allowances, finished with a zigzag or serger). The tutorial is sewn with the faux felled seam style, if you'd like to use the flat felled seam style, refer to the earlier video (pieces are sewn wrong sides together first, not right sides together). Also be sure you have cut the pieces on the correct lines for the corresponding seam style. Blue  - faux felled 1/4" seam allowance. Black Flat Felled 3/8" seam allowance.

Pattern Overview (designs that feature princess seams and sweetheart necklines):

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week One task:

• Let's sew the jacket together! Watch the video and follow along as we make the denim jacket. 
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 3: The Hoodie Denim Jacket Hack.

Hi Everyone! Let's talk about - Denim! More specifically, the classic wardrobe staple, the Denim Jacket. This is a true classic! The denim jacket can be worn at any age and compliments a variety of styles. 

Throughout this 4 part topic, we will cover the techniques used and explore a few added variations to this classic design. 

I'll be demonstrating these techniques while walking you through a step by step sew along for the Liberty Jane Denim Jacket pattern. We will begin by working on a few of the specific techniques used in the pattern. I feel it's important to take our time, practice the techniques, and look closely a the fabrics and supplies needed so we can have successful outcomes!

Over the course of this 4 part topic we will cover:

• Topic Overview (Part 1)
• Supplies & Fabric(Part 1)
• Flat Felled Seam Tutorial (Part 1)
• Topstitching & Button Holes Practice Tutorials (Part 1)
• Denim Jacket Sew Along (Part 2)
• 14.5" Wellie Size pattern released (Part 2)
• Hoodie Pattern Hack - Two Ways(Part 3)
• Fur Lined Jacket Pattern Hack (Part 4)
• Adding Embellishments (Part 4)

We have so much planned for this course. It's going to be a fun month!

Are you ready? Let's go...

In the videos posted below, I share with you an overview of the month-long topic, go over the supplies needed for this project,  and then take a deep dive into our first practice tutorial - the flat felled seam.

Special Note - The pattern includes cut lines and instructions to make the jacket with flat felled seams (fully enclosed) or faux felled seams (exposed seam allowances, finished with a zigzag or serger). Both methods are fine to use, it's really just personal preference. The flat felled seam has a cleaner more professional look but may seem intimidating if you haven't mastered it yet. Experimenting with the techniques and figuring out which method works best for you and your fabric choice is the key to success! I encourage you to take the time this week to practice this type of seam. Then move on to the next tutorial video - Topstitching and Buttonholes. Follow along and then practice these things too. It's better to feel confident in these techniques before beginning your denim jacket project!

Pattern Overview (designs that feature princess seams and sweetheart necklines):

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week One task:

• Get your pattern (or wait for the 14.5" size), find your fabric and supplies, and practice the techniques and seam styles demonstrated. Decide which style seam line you would like to sew. At that point, you can move on to cutting out your pattern pieces and decide what fabrics and supplies to use for your jacket project! Don't forget to practice topstitching and buttonholes! This is the part that really makes the jacket look so authentic!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 2: The Denim Jacket Sew Along.

Hi Everyone! Let's talk about something I like to call Fabric Manipulation!  

Follow along in this 4-part course as we learn the tricks of the trade! This topic covers distressing denim, using techniques like pintucks and ruching to create visual interest, working with fabric dyes, and more...

In part one, we'll take a closer look at distressing denim. I'll show you my favorite techniques to create authentic looking garments! A little wear goes a long way :)

In the video posted below, I share with you several hands on tutorials for creating this look. I hope this will encourage and inspire you to try something new!

Below is a list of patterns that use denim fabrics and are perfect canvases for these distressing techniques:

Pattern Overview (designs for denim)

• Liberty Jane Paradise Cove 18" Dolls 
• Liberty Jane Paradise Cove 14.5" Dolls 
• Liberty Jane Jeans 14.5" Dolls 
• Liberty Jane Jeans 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Button Front Mini Skirt 18" Dolls 
• Liberty Jane Mini Skirt 14.5" Dolls 
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane High Waisted jeans 18" Dolls

Week One task:

• Watch the videos and pick one of the techniques illustrated - then pop over to the facebook group and share your work!

Next Tuesday  - Week 2: Pin Tucks and Ruching

Hi Everyone! This week we I'm excited to share my tips and techniques for sewing both slash pockets and patch pockets. Both styles are commonly found on jeans, but can be used in a veriety of othe garments. Watch the video below for an indepth look at sewing these types of pockets.  

Week Two: Watch the video and then practice sewing either patch pockets, slash pockets, or both! You can use any of the pattern listed below or any pattern you'd like that uses patch pockets.

Pattern Overview: Below you'll find a list of the Liberty Jane patterns that include welt pockets in the design.

• Liberty Jane Moto Pants (available separately in several sizes - 18" AG Girl, 18" AG Boy, and 18" BFC Doll)
• Liberty Jane Jeans 18"AG, 18" BFC, 18" Journey Girls, 18" KNC, 14.5" WW, 14" HFHG, 16" Ellowyne, 16" AGAT, 15" Bitty Baby
• Liberty Jane Capri/Shorts (WW version)
• Liberty Jane High Waisted Jeans
• Liberty Jane Surfrider Sundress (Front Slash Pockets) 18" AG,  WW version will be published this month!
• Liberty Jane Single Strap Overall Shorts 18" AG and 14.5" WW (coming soon!)
• Liberty Jane Coronado Shirtdress (Patch Pocket)

Resources (other tips & tricks):

• 1/4" width Steam A Seam - I use this for so many things!
• Twin Needle - 1.6mm or 2mm size 70 or 80
• Tiny 4" embroidery scissors are a must! I try to keep a super sharp pair on hand at all times. They are great for trimming and clipping very close to the stitching. 
• A good steam iron!
• Marking tools, such as Dritz Eraseable Marking Pen or Clover Water Soluble Pencils

 Week One task:

• Using the pattern pieces from any of the mentioned patterns, cut out and sew a pocket. Don't feel you need to create an entire garment! The point of this exercise is to refine your skills :) You don't actually need to use the pattern pieces if you want to work with something larger to begin with.
• For a simple patch pocket exercise - follow the tutorial posted below to add a cute patch pocket to anything you'd like!
• Post questions as comments under this Facebook Group Post - please preface your question by stating the the pattern used if applicable. Post finished projects as well  - we'd love to see them!

Next Tuesday  - Week 2: Side seam (or hidden) pockets tips and tricks...

Bonus Patch Pocket Tutorial:

Patch pockets are ridiculously easy and versatile -- they're great for adding a pop of color (and functionality) to pants, skirts, shirts, and many other items. Today, we'll make two kinds of patch pockets; a quintessential patch pocket, and a novelty shaped pocket.

1. The Basic Patch Pocket

Figure out how large you'd like your pocket to be, then cut a rectangle of fabric that's 1/4" larger on the bottom and sides, and 1/2" longer along the top edge.

Press under the top edge twice, so that you have a 1/4" double turn hem. Then, edgestitch close to the folded edge to hold it down.

Press under the remaining three edges 1/4". Position your pocket, and pin it into place.

Edgestitch around the outer edges to finish.

If your pocket is going to get a lot of use, it's a good idea to reinforce the corners. Here's a little diagram that shows you how to stitch little reinforcing triangles at each upper edge of the pocket...

2. The Novelty Shaped Patch Pocket

But, you say, what about when you inevitably get bored of the basic, rectangular pocket? What if you want to try other shapes? Well, here's one way to get randomly (and delightfully) shaped patch pockets.

Cut out two identical pieces of fabric, in your desired shape -- be sure you add about 1/4" of seam allowance on all the edges. Lay the two pieces atop each other, with the right sides together, and stitch. Leave an opening at least 1" long somewhere near the bottom.

Clip into the seam allowance (curious? We give a few hints in this post) and turn your pocket right side out. Press it carefully, being sure to fold in the edges of the opening.

Then, all that's left is to place your pocket and edgestitch it down. Of course, where to start and stop stitching won't always be clear with this kind of pocket; the rules of thumb here are to make sure 1) your object can still fit into the pocket and 2) the stitching comes up high enough that the object won't fall out of the pocket :)

And there you have it! Congratulations!

Hi Everyone! Are you ready for a deep dive into the topic of "Perfect Pockets"? Throughout this month long topic I'll share with you my tips and tricks for sewing a variety of pocket types, topstitching tips, placement tips, and more ... Watch the video below for an overview of the month long topic.  

Week One: To kick things off, let's start with those pesky welt pockets! You all received the Moto Pants pattern and video as a sign up bonus. You can refer to that for the second part of this tutorial video. In this video I'll walk you through how to practice sewing a welt pocket. Once you become familiar with the welt pocket technique, you may decide to add it to other patterns that could use a bit of added detail! (Download Video Link - may not work on Windows 10)

Pattern Overview: Below you'll find a list of the Liberty Jane patterns that include welt pockets in the design.

• Liberty Jane Moto Pants (available separately in several sizes - 18" AG Girl, 18" AG Boy, and 18" BFC Doll)
• Liberty Jane Motorcycle Jacket (Available for 18" AG and 18" BFC)
• Liberty Jane Capri/Shorts (18" AG only, WW version does not use welt pockets)
• Liberty Jane Piccadilly Peacoat 
• Liberty Jane Stratford Swing Coat 

Resources (other tips & tricks):

• Tiny 4" embroidery scissors are a must! I try to keep a super sharp pair on hand at all times. They are great for trimming and clipping very close to the stitching. 
• A good steam iron!
• Marking tools, such as Dritz Eraseable Marking Pen or Clover Water Soluble Pencils

 Week One task:

• Using the pattern pieces from any of the mentioned patterns, cut out and sew a welt pocket. Don't feel you need to create an entire garment! The point of this exercise is to refine your skills :) You don't actually need to use the pattern pieces if you want to work with something larger to begin with.
• To create a larger test pocket without pattern pieces, simply cut out a 5" square of fabric and 3" x 9" rectangle of scrap fabric. Measure down from the top of the rectangle, 1". Draw a slender horizontal rectangle 1.5" wide x 1/2" tall. Place that piece on the square, lining up the top edges and centering the narrower piece. Follow the directions in the video to sew the welt pocket.
• Post questions as comments under this Facebook Group Post - please preface your question by stating the the pattern used if applicable. Post finished projects as well  - we'd love to see them!

Next Tuesday  - Week 2: Patch pockets tips and tricks...