https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon.atom larougetdelisle - Sewing With Cinnamon 2023-03-28T14:07:25-07:00 larougetdelisle https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/hand-sewing-mastery-hand-embroidered-embellishments 2019-07-23T17:30:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:06-07:00 Hand Sewing Mastery - Hand Embroidered Embellishments Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! To wrap up the topic of Hand Sewing Mastery we are going to take a look at using our hand sewing skills to do some hand-embroidered embellishments. I love this type of detail work because a little bit can make a big impact on the overall look and feel of the garment.

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Hi Everyone! To wrap up the topic of Hand Sewing Mastery we are going to take a look at using our hand sewing skills to do some hand-embroidered embellishments. I love this type of detail work because a little bit can make a big impact on the overall look and feel of the garment.

We are keeping it simple with just a few basic stitches. The great thing is that you can build on this and experiment with a bunch of other techniques to build on what you've learned here! 

In the videos posted below, I share with you a few basic stitches - the backstitch, chain stitch, split stitch, and the french knot. You can use these to create a variety of stitch combinations. It's a great place to start! I hope this will encourage and inspire you to try something new!

 

 

Hand Embroidered Embellishments Video:

Resources (on Amazon):

Bonus Free tutorials here on larougetdelisle:

 

Suggested Patterns For this Topic: 

  • LJ Abbey Road - hem, armscye bindings
  • LJ Opening Night - lining, thread loop for hook
  • LJ Starlight Gala - lining, hand embroidered embellishments
  • LJ Hello Oscar -  lining, hem, hand embroidered embellishments
  • LJ Sheath Dress - lining hemline
  • LJ Roebuck Bay Top - snaps under buttons
  • LJ Lace Overlay Tank Top - Thread Loop Closure
  • TA Martha - snaps, hem
  • TA Underpinnings - hems, hand sewn eyelets, hand sewn buttonholes
  • TA Fancy Shift - hems
  • TA EnForreau - hems, snaps
  • TA First Impressions - snaps
  • TA Saque Back Gown - hems, snaps
  • TA Bib Front Regency - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Sarah Hale - hems, buttonholes
  • TA 1850s Day Dress - hems, snaps
  • TA 1860 Day Dress - hems
  • TA Bustle Dress - hems, snaps
  • TA Prairie Rose - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Town Girl - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Country Girl - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Mary and Laura - hems
  • TA Carrie - hems, snaps
  • TA Waterfall Bustle - snaps
  • TA Sweet Sashay - snaps
  • TA Hunting Frock - Thread Button Loop
  • TA Charlotte - hand sewn buttonholes 

 

Week Four Task:

  • Watch the Hand Embroidered Embellishment video. Practice these techniques on a piece of scrap fabric, or on a garment you have ready to finish.
  • Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
  • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Reminder - Sewing WIth Cinnamon runs in 4-part sessions, When a month has 5 Tuesdays, the 5th Tuesday is a "catch-up" or "review" week. Next week is the 5th Tuesday of July, so we will not be posting new content. We will pick up again in August with our next topic - Couture Sewing Techniques!

 

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https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/hand-sewing-mastery-hand-sewn-buttonholes 2019-07-16T17:30:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:07-07:00 Hand Sewing Mastery - Hand Sewn Buttons, Buttonholes, and Thread Loop Closures Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3, Buttons, Buttonholes, & Thread Loop Closures. This week we will be looking at several ways to sew on buttons and several types of closure styles to make them functional. Shari with us again to demonstrate the art of the hand-bound buttonhole, making it look so easy! We'll also be demonstrating how to make a thread loop for your button and the most common ways to sew on buttons themselves.

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Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3, Buttons, Buttonholes, & Thread Loop Closures. This week we will be looking at several ways to sew on buttons and several types of closure styles to make them functional. Shari is with us again to demonstrate the art of the hand-bound buttonhole, making it look so easy! We'll also be demonstrating how to make a thread loop for your button and the most common ways to sew on buttons themselves.

We'll be demonstrating these methods as basic tutorial exercises on small scraps of fabric as well as showing examples on both Liberty Jane and Thimbles and Acorns designs to help illustrate how the basic techniques and methods are used at a smaller scale. Follow along to understand the process, hopefully watching us in action will clarify any concerns or issues you may have with these types of techniques. 

How To Sew On Buttons:

 

 

How to Make Hand Sewn Buttonholes with Shari:

Where do you find inspiration? My inspiration for learning how to make hand sewn buttonholes first came from one of my favorite childhood books, Little Town on the the Prairie, by Laura Ingalls Wilder. In the story, Laura took her first job as a seamstress and one of her tasks was to sew buttonholes on shirts. Laura didn't particularly like making buttonholes, so she learned how to make a quick neat job of them. Her precise buttonholes with their tiny knotted stitches impressed her employer who praised her for both the efficiency and quality of her work. If you don't have rows and rows of buttonholes to make every day like Laura did, the easy methodical way hand sewn buttonholes are made can be a rather relaxing and satisfying experience.

While modern sewing machines have made making buttonholes a snap (no pun intended), machine sewn buttonholes aren't the best choice for every application. When working with smaller garments, it can be a lot easier to make hand sewn buttonholes in hard to reach spaces. Hand sewn buttonholes also work better for smaller buttons as they are not only stronger, but you also have more control over the finished size. For historical and heirloom garments, hand sewn buttonholes add an air of authenticity and charm that you simply can not get with machine sewn buttonholes.

Watch the video below to see Shari demonstrate how to make a basic hand sewn buttonhole and download the tutorial page from the SWC Bonuses section, which shows a simple variation of the same technique. You can see a few examples of how buttonholes can be used on a smaller scale on the chemise and drawers from Thimbles and Acorns Victorian Unmentionables pattern.

 

 

 

The Thread Loop Closure:

 

 

Suggested Patterns For this Topic: 

  • LJ Abbey Road - hem, armscye bindings
  • LJ Opening Night - lining, thread loop for hook
  • LJ Starlight Gala - lining, hand embroidered embellishments
  • LJ Hello Oscar -  lining, hem, hand embroidered embellishments
  • LJ Sheath Dress - lining hemline
  • LJ Roebuck Bay Top - snaps under buttons
  • LJ Lace Overlay Tank Top - Thread Loop Closure
  • TA Martha - snaps, hem
  • TA Underpinnings - hems, hand sewn eyelets, hand sewn buttonholes
  • TA Fancy Shift - hems
  • TA EnForreau - hems, snaps
  • TA First Impressions - snaps
  • TA Saque Back Gown - hems, snaps
  • TA Bib Front Regency - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Sarah Hale - hems, buttonholes
  • TA 1850s Day Dress - hems, snaps
  • TA 1860 Day Dress - hems
  • TA Bustle Dress - hems, snaps
  • TA Prairie Rose - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Town Girl - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Country Girl - hems, buttonholes
  • TA Mary and Laura - hems
  • TA Carrie - hems, snaps
  • TA Waterfall Bustle - snaps
  • TA Sweet Sashay - snaps
  • TA Hunting Frock - Thread Button Loop
  • TA Charlotte - hand sewn buttonholes 

 

Week Three Task:

  • Watch the three videos. Practice these techniques on a piece of scrap fabric, or on a garment you have ready to finish.
  • Be sure to download the PDF that goes along with the hand Sewn Buttonhole video. It's in the SWC Bonuses section.
  • Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
  • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.
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https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/hand-sewing-mastery-how-to-apply-sew-on-snaps 2019-07-09T17:30:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:08-07:00 Hand Sewing Mastery - How To Apply Sew On Snaps Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 2, How to apply sew-on snaps. This week we have Shari with us to present a few techniques for working with these tiny closures!

Snaps are one of the most user-friendly closures for doll clothes as they are easy to fasten, don't get snagged on doll hair, and can be used just about anywhere a fastener is needed.

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Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 2, How to apply sew-on snaps. This week we have Shari with us to present a few techniques for working with these tiny closures!

Snaps are one of the most user-friendly closures for doll clothes as they are easy to fasten, don't get snagged on doll hair, and can be used just about anywhere a fastener is needed. Although their simple sew-through design should make them as easy to apply as a basic button, they are rather slippery and can be a bit of a bugger to handle. Smaller snaps, in particular, have a tendency to shoot out from between your fingers like watermelon seeds. 

Most snaps have a tiny little hole in the center of each piece that you can stick a pin through to hold the snap in place while you sew. While this is helpful in keeping your snap from flying off, it can make the process of sewing a bit more “fumbly” as you try to avoid poking yourself on the pin. I recently hit on a method for sewing snaps that is both quick and easy - and painless since it doesn't require any pins. In the videos posted below, I will show you how to use this method to sew on each side of a snap as well as how to sew a snap under a decorative button.

Snaps can almost always be used interchangeably with buttons or hook and loop tape. Simply choose snaps that are the same size or slightly smaller than the recommended button size. When the size is not indicated, a size 1 or 0 (3/8-inch or 8-10 mm) snap is generally a good choice for doll clothes. Smaller snaps are not as strong as larger snaps, but if you need your snaps to be less conspicuous you can usually use a smaller size such as size 3/0 or 4/0. Just be sure to use the recommended size snaps at higher stress points such as waistbands.

    We'll be demonstrating these methods as basic tutorial exercises on small scraps of fabric as well as showing examples on both Liberty Jane and Thimbles and Acorns designs to help illustrate how the basic techniques and methods are used at a smaller scale. Follow along to understand the process, hopefully watching us in action will clarify any concerns or issues you may have with these types of techniques.

     

     

     

     

    Suggested Patterns For this Topic: 

    • LJ Abbey Road - hem, armscye bindings
    • LJ Opening Night - lining, thread loop for hook
    • LJ Starlight Gala - lining, hand embroidered embellishments
    • LJ Hello Oscar -  lining, hem, hand embroidered embellishments
    • LJ Sheath Dress - lining hemline
    • LJ Roebuck Bay Top - snaps under buttons
    • TA Martha - snaps, hem
    • TA Underpinnings - hems, hand sewn eyelets, hand sewn buttonholes
    • TA Fancy Shift - hems
    • TA EnForreau - hems, snaps
    • TA First Impressions - snaps
    • TA Saque Back Gown - hems, snaps
    • TA Bib Front Regency - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Sarah Hale - hems, buttonholes
    • TA 1850s Day Dress - hems, snaps
    • TA 1860 Day Dress - hems
    • TA Bustle Dress - hems, snaps
    • TA Prairie Rose - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Town Girl - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Country Girl - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Mary and Laura - hems
    • TA Carrie - hems, snaps
    • TA Waterfall Bustle - snaps
    • TA Sweet Sashay - snaps
    • TA Hunting Frock - Thread Button Loop
    • TA Charlotte - hand sewn buttonholes 

     

    Week Two Task:

    • Watch the Sew On Snaps Part 1 and Part 2 videos. Practice these techniques on a piece of scrap fabric, or on a garment you have ready to finish.
    • Watch the Sew Snaps Under Buttons video. Practice this technique a few times.
    • Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
    • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

     

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    https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/hand-sewing-mastery-topic-overview 2019-07-02T17:30:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:10-07:00 Hand Sewing Mastery - Topic Overview Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! Welcome to the topic, Hand Sewing Mastery. This is such an important skill to master so that you have the confidence to finish your garments and project well every time! For this topic, I'm excited to announce that Shari Fuller, the designer of the Thimbles and Acorns brand, will be my co-host!

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    Hi Everyone! Welcome to the topic, Hand Sewing Mastery. This is such an important skill to master so that you have the confidence to finish your garments and project well every time! 

    For this topic, I'm excited to announce that Shari Fuller, the designer of the Thimbles and Acorns brand, will be my co-host! She has spent years perfecting the art of hand sewing and includes many different uses in her pattern collection. We are both really excited to present this topic to you and hope that this course will provide you with the skill set and motivation to sew the hand-sewn seams beautifully!

    The topic will be divided into four sessions:

    • Part 1: Topic Overview, Hand Sewing Sampler Project
    • Part 2: How To Apply Sew-On Snaps, and Sewing Snaps under Buttons
    • Part 3: Hand Sewn Buttons and Buttonholes
    • Part 4: Hand Sewing as an Embellishment

    We'll be demonstrating these methods as basic tutorial exercises on small scraps of fabric as well as showing examples on both Liberty Jane and Thimbles and Acorns designs to help illustrate how the basic techniques and methods are used at a smaller scale. Follow along to understand the process, hopefully watching us in action will clarify any concerns or issues you may have with these types of techniques.

    It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

     

    Suggested Patterns For this Topic: 

    • LJ Abbey Road - hem, armscye bindings
    • LJ Opening Night - lining, thread loop for hook
    • LJ Starlight Gala - lining, hand embroidered embellishments
    • LJ Hello Oscar -  lining, hem, hand embroidered embellishments
    • LJ Sheath Dress - lining hemline
    • LJ Roebuck Bay Top - snaps under buttons
    • TA Martha - snaps, hem
    • TA Underpinnings - hems, hand sewn eyelets, hand sewn buttonholes
    • TA Fancy Shift - hems
    • TA EnForreau - hems, snaps
    • TA First Impressions - snaps
    • TA Saque Back Gown - hems, snaps
    • TA Bib Front Regency - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Sarah Hale - hems, buttonholes
    • TA 1850s Day Dress - hems, snaps
    • TA 1860 Day Dress - hems
    • TA Bustle Dress - hems, snaps
    • TA Prairie Rose - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Town Girl - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Country Girl - hems, buttonholes
    • TA Mary and Laura - hems
    • TA Carrie - hems, snaps
    • TA Waterfall Bustle - snaps
    • TA Sweet Sashay - snaps
    • TA Hunting Frock - Thread Button Loop
    • TA Charlotte - hand sewn buttonholes 

     

     

       

      Part 1 - Hand Sewing Overview:

      Hand stitching is an integral part of sewing. However, with the rise of machine sewing and the stunning array of stitches and techniques available by these machines, it's important to establish the continued relevance of hand sewing.

      Hand sewing provides precision and control. Even the most careful pinning or basting can't always keep the fabric from moving; just getting the fabric into a sewing machine can sometimes distort it slightly especially when working in tight corners and with small pieces! In addition, the feed dogs can easily pull layers at different rates, and sometimes dull needles or an incorrect tension setting can cause puckering. Hand sewing allows you to precisely oversee the construction process, giving you ultimate control as you shape the seam.

      Some of the most common stitches used include running, backstitch, slip/fell stitch, catch stitch, and overcasting.

      • The running stitch is usually used to baste material together along a seamline; it is the workhorse of basting stitches.
      • Strong yet flexible, and permanent, the backstitch provides a continuous line of thread on both sides of the seam (unlike the running stitch).
      • The slip stitch and the fell stitch are closely related; both join a folded edge to a flat edge. The biggest difference between the two is the angle they are worked at, and where the thread travels the distance of the stitch.
      • The catch stitch is often used to hold a hem in place securely and invisibly, but can also secure a facing edge.

      Hand Sewing Supplies: When hand sewing, use a good quality thread, treated with beeswax; silk thread is best for basting since it pulls out easily and leaves no marks when pressed.

      Hand Stitching Sampler Exercise: For this week, we have a fun little project for you to work on to practice the different hand stitches while making a beautiful resource at the same time! Follow along in the video below to make your own Hand Stitching Sampler. Then post it in a notebook or frame it as a wall decoration and use it as a quick resource for years to come!

       

       Here are the specifics for the Hand Stitching Sampler:

      • Refer to the video for any questions about how to work the stitches.

      • Cut a rectangle of fabric 7" x 12".

      • Mark a line 1 1/4" down from the top edge, along the short direction of the piece. Press a fold along this line.

      • Mark 1/2" down from the fold. Work a running stitch on this marked line, forming a 1/2" tuck. Press tuck towards bottom of sampler.

      • Mark a second fold line, 1/14" from the base of the first tuck. Press; then, mark 1/2" from the fold, and work a backstitch to make a second 1/2" deep tuck. Press tuck towards bottom of sampler.

      • Make two more tucks in the same way (marking fold line 1 1/4" from folded edge of previous tuck, and stitching 1/2" away from fold). Sew these tucks with either a running stitch or a backstitch (your choice). Press both tucks down towards bottom of sampler.

      • Work a running stitch to hold down the first tuck.

      • Work a pick stitch to hold down the second tuck.

      • Work a slipstitch to hold down the third tuck.

      • Work a fell stitch to hold down the fourth tuck.

      • On the lower edge of the sampler, press up 1". Catch stitch this into place.

      • Hand-overcast along the upper edge of the sampler.

      • Mount completed sampler in your notebook. Label each stitch for easy reference.

       

      Week One task:

      • Watch the Topic Overview and the Hand Sewing Sampler videos.
      • Create your own Hand Stitching Sampler. Post it in the facebook group when complete. We'd love to see the variety of styles and creative ways these can be made! 
      • Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
      • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

       

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