Hi everyone! This week, in Part 4, we wrap things up with another great tutorial from Shari Fuller! In this tutorial, she is going embellish a plain straight hem using a few different decorative hem stitches found on most sewing machines and an embroidery technique called drawn thread work. The featured example will be done with the Spring Dirndl pattern by Keepers Dolly Duds, but you can adapt any pattern that has a hemline with a straight edge with this same effect.]]>
Hi everyone! This week, in Part 4, we wrap things up with another great tutorial from Shari Fuller! In this tutorial, she is going embellish a plain straight hem using a few different decorative hem stitches found on most sewing machines and an embroidery technique called drawn thread work.
Are you ready? Let's go...
The pattern used in this weeks video example:
The featured example will be done with the Spring Dirndl pattern by Keepers Dolly Duds, but you can adapt any pattern that has a hemline with a straight edge with this same effect. Other suggestions that come to mind would be the Roebuck Bay Skirt (in either 18" or 14.5" sizes), The Killara Dress/Lightning Ridge Top, The Boomerit Falls Dress, and The Maxi Dress (simplified variation in a woven).
Week Three Project:
- Watch the video and follow along to practice this stitch on your own.
- Grab your sewing machine manual to figure out which stitch selection to use. You will choose the fagoting stitch or feather stitch.
- Step One (very Important!) Be sure to true your fabric to ensure the hemline is cut on the straight of grain. Grainlines are key to drawn work, so before you cut out your Dirndl skirt, you will need to true the bottom edge of your fabric so that it runs straight along the grainline. If you are using a firmly woven fabric, you can do this simply by clipping one edge of the selvage above the cut end and tearing it across to the other selvage. I am using linen with a looser weave, so tearing may damage the fabric. In this case, it is best to use the drawn thread method for truing the edge instead. To do this, just snip the selvage above the cut edge and gently draw out one or two of the horizontal threads. Work slowly and carefully, alternating between pulling the thread and sliding the fabric along until the drawn thread is pulled from the entire length. If the thread breaks, no worries. Use a seam ripper to pull up the end and continue drawing the thread out. Now, just cut along the line where the thread was drawn to true your edges.
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Before you cut out your skirting, check to see if you need to adjust the length of the pattern piece to accommodate the hem you would like to use. The Spring Dirndl pattern has a 1/4” hem allowance, but I am going to add an additional 1/2” to the bottom edge because I want a ¾” hem allowance so I can make a ½” wide double-fold hem. Once you make your adjustments you can cut out the skirting fabric, being careful to line up the bottom edge with the true edge of the fabric.
In this example, my final hem will be ½” wide, so I need to add that number to the hem allowance to determine where to start drawing the threads. Adding the 3/4” hem allowance plus the 1/2” wide hem, I find I need to start my drawn work 1 ¼ inches above the raw edge of my skirting.
- Start pulling the first thread where you want the drawn work to begin, gently draw out one horizontal thread at a time. Work slowly and carefully, alternating between pulling the thread and sliding the fabric along until the drawn thread is pulled from the entire length. Pretty much the same way I trued the edge of my linen fabric. Once the first thread is removed, the rest will come out more easily. Continue drawing threads until you have a ¼” space.
- You could just do one row of drawn thread, but I would like this hem to be a bit more decorative, so I am going to draw another ¼” row of threads 3/8” above the first row.
- Fold, press, and sew the hem of the skirt piece.
- With an open toe foot, such as a Monogram foot, on your machine, choose your preferred decorative stitch, I have chosen a hemstitch that looks like a blanket stitch - called a Pin Stitch on some machines. The straight edge should run along the lower edge of the drawn threads.
- Finish each edge of the drawn thread sections with the same stitch or any other of the hemstitches you'd prefer. I am using the hemstitch for all the edges except the top where I am using a more decorative stitch. As a finishing touch, sew are a row of decorative stitches down the center of the space between the drawn work.
- Then follow the instructions in the pattern to finish the dress!
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Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.
Part 3 Tutorial - The Drawn Thread Hem Tutorial:
What is a Drawn Thread Work?
According to Wikipedia, Drawn Thread Work is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped as whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.
Do I need special attachments or tools to sew this technique?
This is a great decorative technique to sew with because it doesn't require special accessories! You use your standard sewing machine foot (for a zigzag or satin stitch) but an open toe foot is preferred. Choose your needle and thread based on your fabric choice.
Fabric is choice is critical. You should use a natural-fiber woven fabric such as lawn, linen, and batiste. White on white is the classic, but you can also use contrasting colors for a more dramatic look!
If accessible, you may want to use a Wing/Hemstitch needle. It is designed for use with delicate fabrics and heirloom sewing.
The Pin Stitch, Picot Stitch, or Parisian hemstitch work best for this seam, choose which one you would prefer to use. The Double Triangle stitch, ladder stitch, and asterisk stitch are also great substitute stitches.
Resources:
If you're interested in more decorative stitches and how to use them, I recommend this book - Super Stitches Sewing by Nicole Vasbinder. This essential guide to both machine and hand stitches will teach you how to use any and every stitch for professional-looking seams, hems, gathers, darts, and more. Unlock your full sewing potential with 57 machine stitches, 18 hand stitches, and tips to choose the correct needles, threads, and sewing machine accessories, complete with detailed step-by-step tutorials and illustrations.
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