Hi Everyone! In Part 4 of Serger Basics, we wrap up the topic with a look at using the four thread overlock stitch.

In this video, Donna we will be focusing on understanding how to use the four thread overlock stitch and then contiune with our sew-along of the Savannah Skirt to practice the stitch. We will be using this stitch to give our raw edges on the over skirt a nice finish.

Follow along in the video below:

In this video, we will be focusing on the four-thread overlock stitch.  This stitch is often used in the garment manufacturing industry.  It’s likely to be in the clothes you have on now.

What Is the Three-Thread Overlock and Why Should I Use It?

The four-thread overlock is created using two needles and two loopers. The issues with tension and improperly formed stitches are basically the same as with the three-thread overlock, so we won’t go into detail on that again. 

I did want to show you one more issue that I didn’t cover last time.  

Here, you can see how the fabric is forming little twisted waves ­within the stitched area.  That’s because there’s too much ­fabric within the stitch.  To correct this, you’d need to make sure the wide stitch finger is engaged, reduce the cutting width, or decrease the tension on both loopers; or a combination of those adjustments. 

As I mentioned in the opening video of this course, this particular stitch can be used as a seam, meaning that when two pieces of fabric are joined with this stitch, it remains stable when the fabrics are pulled to create stress on the stitch line.  A three-thread stitch will often pull apart under stress, ­creating a little row of lines that looks like a ladder along the right side of the garment. 

The way I have my machine adjusted, this stitch creates a ¼” seam line which is popular in doll clothing patterns. 

You can see here how I’ve used it to sew the seams on the skirt panels of this Sweet All Around sundress. I have also used this as an edge finish where a three-thread might normally be used. When using this as an edge finish before stitching a seam, you just have to be careful about the wider stitch showing on the outside of your project. 

The times I use this stitch most often are in human-sized clothing like these girl’s dresses.  Here, you can see that I’ve used it to finish the edges on the 5/8” pressed open seams. I also used it to finish the facing as well as the hem line edge. 

In this one, I used it to actually stitch the side seams of the dress and ruffle.  In this particular example, I used the rolled edge technique to hem the ruffles and then used the four-thread overlock for the top of the ruffle in the same way we did our doll skirt ruffles. 

Speaking of the doll skirt, we’re going to use this stitch around the bottom of the overskirt to do a “serge and turn” style hem finish. 

Serging on a curved edge can present a number of challenges.  This one isn’t too bad if you go a little slower.  The way this is curved, some of the edge is on the bias of the fabric which wants to stretch, so you might want to cut a few scraps to a similar shaped curve to ­practice on.   

My best tip for serging concave curves is to disengage the blade.  The issue that arises when serging curves has to do with the cutting knife being so far forward and offset from the needles. 

On a particularly small curve, it may help to staystitch the curve on a conventional machine, then clip the seam allowance to the staystitching.  This will allow the curved edge to straighten out a bit, making it a little less difficult to navigate the curve. Even so, it’s not an easy task. 

When you are trying to serge around the outside of a circular shape, you may need to disengage the blade and concentrate on where the needles are.  Some circles are almost too small to serge­—like the one here on my Convergence dress.  On a circle this small, you may need to use a similar technique to what you would do on a conventional machine where you sew a few stitches and then lift the presser foot to readjust the fabric.  When I do this, especially with the four-thread stitch, I have the best ­results if I do the tiny pivots with the needles out of the fabric. Practice is the key here.   

For our Savannah Skirt, I’m leaving the blade engaged because I want to trim a tiny amount at the side seams just to give it a smooth curve.  You could choose to smooth the curve with scissors first and then serge without the blade. 

On curved hems like this, I have the best ­results if I sew a row of gathering type stitches around the edge after the raw edge is serged.  Then I can pull that row of stitching up to ease in the curved hem.  A bit of steam pressing helps mold the hem into shape.  Since I know my stitch is ¼” wide, I can use it as a guide to help keep my hem allowance even without ­having to do a lot of measuring.  

Now we’re ready to topstitch the hem and complete the skirt according to the pattern. 

One last thing before we close out this topic—the dreaded “un-serging.”  I’ve seen instructions to use a seam ripper for removing serged stitching, but all the little thread pieces everywhere drive me crazy.  I usually just pull on the needle thread as if I’m pulling gathering stitches. If it breaks, I work at it until I have enough to pull again.  When I’ve removed the needle threads, the looper threads just come right off in long sections. 

Thanks to Cinnamon and to you for the opportunity to share a little about serger basics.  I hope you’ve learned something new and you’ll be confident to try some new techniques with your serger.  I look forward to learning any tips you might have to share as well! 

Week Four Tasks:

• Get some fabric scraps together to use with this lesson.
• Watch the “Four Thread Overslock” video posted above. There's so much more covered in the video!
• Follow along to see how to sew this technique, then practice this on your own project.
• Continue with the sew-along to sew the Savannah Skirt.
• Jump over to the SWC Facebook Group to show us what you made!

Hi Everyone! In Part 3 of Serger Basics, Donna is joining us again as we take a look at using the three thread overlock stitch.

In this video, we will be focusing on understanding how to set up and use the three htead overlock stich and then contiune wiht our sew-along of the Savannah Skirt to practice the stitch. We will be using this stitch to give our raw edges a nice finish. 

Follow along in the video below as I walk you through all the details of setting up your machine to sew the three thread overlock stitch. I'll show you several examples and go over my suggestions for serging different types of seam allownaces and whether or not to serge the raw edge or sew the seanline first. I've also included a demonstration on how to successfully serge a curved edge. And last but not least, we will jump back into sewing the Savannah Skirt.

What Is the three thread overlock and why should I use it?

The three thread overlock is created using one needle and two loopers. This is probably the stitch you would use most in sewing doll clothes. You’ll need to check your manual for the specifics on how to set up your model of serger for this stitch.

On many sergers, this stitch could be set up with the needle in either the left or right position, which affects the overall width of the stitch.

For doll clothes, the right needle position is best when used as a finish for the raw edges, as a wider stitch is more likely to be seen on the outside of the garment.

A few notes about proper threading and tension:

When the three thread overlock stitch is formed correctly, the upper looper, represented here by the blue thread, will lay flat on the top side of the fabric and extend from the needle thread to the raw edge of the fabric.  The green needle thread is a straight line.

On the back side, the most visible thread is the red lower looper, which lays flat across the fabric extending from the raw edge to the underside of the needle stitching.

Now let’s look at some examples of improperly formed stitches.

If the upper looper (blue thread) is too tight, it will not lay flat across the width of the stitch and the lower looper will be pulled toward the top of the fabric.  When the back is examined, you can see that the fabric is being curled or pulled inward.

If the lower looper (red thread) is too tight, the fabric will be curled in a similar way.  In this case, the blue upper looper is pulled around the raw edge and the red lower looper does not extend fully to lay flat on the back of the fabric.

If the loopers are too loose, they will form little scallops of thread loops off the edge of the fabric.  This situation can be adjusted either by changing the cutting width or the tension on the loopers.

If the needle thread is too loose, the stitch may appear okay on the top side, but a look at the under side shows that loops will form to indicate the problem with the tension.

If the needle thread is too tight, the fabric will get somewhat eased or gathered creating puckers.

Week Two Tasks:

• Get some fabric scraps together to use with this lesson.
• Watch the “Three Thread Overslock” video posted above. There's so much more covered in the video!
• Follow along to see how to sew this technique, then practice this on your own project.
• Continue with the sew-along to sew the Savannah Skirt.
• Jump over to the SWC Facebook Group to show us what you made!

Be sure to join us next Tuesday as we focus on the 4 thread overlock stitch and continue sewing the skirt.

Hi Everyone! In Part 2 of Serger Basics, Donna is joining us again as we take a look at sewing rolled edge hems. 

In this video, we will be focusing on the rolled edge hem.  I chose this stitch to be our first focus because the first step in our sew-along pattern is the hem on the ruffles.  That’s where we will use this stitch.  When the serger is set up properly for this stitch, the fabric will be automatically turned under along the raw edge and the upper looper thread will wrap around that small fold creating a beautifully finished tiny hem.

As mentioned in Part 1, we will be using the Sew Urban Savannah Skirt as our sew-along for this topic as it provides several opportunities to try several basic techniques all within one pattern. If you don't have that pattern yet, I encourage you to grab a copy and follow along as we practice these serger techniques together!

What Is a Rolled Edge Why Should I use it? 

The rolled edge hem is created using one needle and two loopers.  It may be that your machine is not capable of a rolled edge stitch, and in that case, you can use a 3 thread overlock to finish the ruffle’s edge.  It may be that on some models of sergers, you need to change out the throat plate, presser foot, or other parts. You’ll need to check your manual for the specifics on how to set up your model of serger for this stitch. 

Follow along in the video below as I walk you through all the details of setting up your machine and sewing the rolled edge hem on the ruffles of the Savannah Skirt.

A few things to point out: On the model demonstrated in the video, the wide stitch finger is moved out of the way. Once the stitch finger is out of the way, the stitches get formed around a smaller stitch pin, creating a very narrow finished rolled edge. The other significant change for a rolled edge stitch is the tension on the lower looper.  Depending on the machine you're using, you may be able to set this automatically or you may need to follow your manual to set it manually.

This hem style can be used to replace a traditional single or double turned hem. Beginning at 6:45 in the video you can follow along to see how the pattern piece was modified to allow for this technique. You can use it on a variety of fabrics, both knits & wovens. It's an especially nice way to finish the hem on a delicate fabric like chiffon!

If you use the rolled edge on something with corners like the Handkerchief Skirt or the napkins we practiced on in Part 1, I think the best way to treat the corners is to FIRST use a drop of seam sealant on the corners and THEN snip off the thread tail once the sealant has dried. It's challenging to do the needle trick demonstrated in the napkin tutorial with the rolled edge stitch.

There are many patterns on larougetdelisle that could adapt well to a rolled edge.  Sew Urban’s Handkerchief Skirt and Liberty Jane’s Faraway Downs Dress (skirt variation) come to mind. I’m sure once you get the hang of it, you’ll find this to be a quick method to use for many projects.

Here is an example of a rolled edge hem used on the Faraway Downs Skirt. The pink thread is a nice accent detail that really highlights the tiered ruffles!

Here are several more examples of designs that could work well with a rolled edge hem. From left to right: Kings Canyon top, Kimberley Dress, Twirly Tunic, UK Holiday (dress modification shown in the Elastics topic), Harajuku Station Skirt, Kings Canyon for Wellies, Ruffle Jacket, and the Ruffled Top. 

Week Two Tasks:

• Get your pattern and supplies together. For this demo, we suggest you use the Sew Urban Savannah Skirt ruffles and sew along with us. You can also practice this technique with long rectangular 2-inch wide strips if desired.
• Watch the “Rolled Edge Hems” video posted above.
• Follow along to see how to sew this technique, then practice this on your own project.
• Extra Bonus - find a different pattern in your stash and identify a hem or sleeve hem that you could use this technique on. Share your thoughts with the group! Have more sewing time on your hands? Try it out using the pattern modification tips at 6:45 in the video. Jump over to the SWC Facebook Group to show us what you made!

Be sure to join us next Tuesday as we focus on the 3 thread overlock stitch and continue sewing the skirt.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the topic - Serger Basics! For this topic, I'm excited to announce that Donna Kinley the designer of the DKinley Designs brand, will be my co-host! As many of you know, I'm not one who regularly uses a serger. I love the look of the finished style, I've just avoided learning all the necessary things to use a serger in my work. I've worked with Donna for several years and have always been impressed with her attention to detail and the quality of her sewn garments. When I asked her if she'd be interested in sharing what she knows on this topic with all of us in the Sewing With Cinnamon community, she jumped at the opportunity! I'm so excited that she is here, there's so much to learn. So without further ado,

Here's more from Donna...

I'm excited to share with you about sergers and how to use them to create professionally finished doll clothes. Over the course of the month, we'll take a look at basic information along with some tips and tricks. We'll take a look at basic various stitches and how to apply them to a project.

We will be using the Sew Urban Savannah Skirt as our sew-along for this topic as it provides several opportunities to try several basic techniques all within one pattern.

The posts will include a lot of information, but rest assured, we will consolidate all of this into a nice & neat PDF that you can download at the end of the month as well. 

The topic will be divided into four sessions:

• Part 1: Topic Overview, Getting Started, and Threading The Machine
• Part 2: The Rolled Edge
• Part 3: 3-Thread Overlock
• Part 4: 4-Thread Overlock

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

What Is a Serger and Why Should I use it? 

Some people think of sergers as troublesome or intimidating. I see them as a great time-saver, much like the microwave in my kitchen. While I may not be able to complete all my cooking tasks in the microwave, it sure does speed up many of them. In the same way, my serger can help me produce a professional looking project in much less time. What’s so special about them? In short, a serger can be used to stitch a seam, trim the excess fabric, and finish the raw edge, all in one step.

Let’s take a look at a serger in general and how it differs from a conventional sewing machine. The first thing you’ll notice is that a serger uses multiple cones of thread and there is no bobbin. Instead of the bobbin, there are loopers.

A serger is often referred to as an overlock machine. These loopers work together to bring the threads over the cut edge and lock them along the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying. The second difference is the cutting mechanism which trims the fabric just before the stitches are created.

The other main difference is the speed of sewing. The average home sewing machines sew between 650 to 1,000 stitches per minute, whereas the average home serger sews between 1,300 to 1,700 stitches per minute.

If you are thinking about getting a serger, I highly recommend buying from a local shop that provides classes and support. Average prices range from $200 for a basic machine up to several thousand for a machine with all the bells and whistles. Just as with most anything, it is possible to find a good used machine locally or online, but there’s the usual risks of missing parts, mechanical issues, and lack of support. Choose wisely.

If you already have a serger hiding somewhere, pull it out, dust it off, and let’s get to know it better!

Essential Serger Tools and Supplies

The items you will want to have handy are:

• Machine owner’s manual - (many of these are now available as PDFs online) 

• THREAD - Serger thread comes on cones or large spools and can be found in a large variety of colors.  Many people choose to limit their serger thread to just a few neutral colors, especially if it will only be used inside their items.  When the serger will be used for visible finished edges, the color of the thread becomes a bit more important. In a small project, large size spools of regular thread can be used; but, in general, the loopers use a lot of thread, so it’s best to use the large cones designed for sergers to lessen the chance of running out of thread in the middle of your project.

• NEEDLES - Your machine should include a few needles.  Most home sergers use the same needles that conventional sewing machines use, but check your manual to be certain.  As with regular sewing, needle size should be matched to thread size and type of fabric.  Personally, I haven’t found a need to use much other than a size 75/11 or 80/12 universal type needle.

• THREAD SNIPS - I like to keep a pair of thread snippers at my serger.  There is a wide variety of these available.  A small pair of scissors would work but take a bit longer to use. 

• LARGE TWEEZERS and NEEDLE AND LOOPER THREADER - These are usually included with the machine and are useful for threading hard to reach areas.

• LARGE BLUNT POINT NEEDLE - A blunt point needle with an extra large eye can be used for hiding thread tails inside the serged stitches for a cleaner look on corners and to keep stitches from coming loose as there is no backstitching to lock the stitches.

• OIL - A serger has a lot of moving parts that need to be cleaned and oiled on a regular basis.  Check the owner’s manual for details about this for your machine.  In general, oiling will be needed in the looper area.  Be sure to use a high grade machine oil to keep your serger running smoothly.

• CLEANING BRUSH - Due to the constant scissor action of the cutting blades, dust and fluff accumulate quickly in and on the machine.  Use the brush to remove this while being careful not to pull the threads out of position. A small vacuum tool such as the kind for computers can be used for a more thorough cleaning. The cleaning brush included with my machine has a hole in the handle that is designed to be used as a needle inserter.

• SCREWDRIVERS - Your machine should have some screwdrivers included as part of the accessories.  These are used when changing the needles or, occasionally, the cutting blades.

• FABRIC SCRAPS - I like to keep a small bin of fabric scraps by my serger.  These can be some of the larger pieces that would often get tossed into the trashcan when you are cutting out a project.  It’s a good idea to have various weights and types of fabrics handy so you can do your test stitching on a fabric that will be most similar to the fabrics in the project you will be sewing.

SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

Using your instruction manual as a guide, familiarize yourself with your machine and complete the following:

• Extend the telescoping thread guide to its fullest height.
• Insert the needles if they aren’t already in the machine.  Follow the instructions in your manual for your model to do this.  On my machine, the manual states to loosen both set screws then insert the right needle first (flat side toward the back) and tighten the right set screw slightly. Then insert the left needle in the same way and tighten both set screws.  You’ll notice that the left needle is set a tiny bit higher than the right. (Two needles are needed for the 4 thread overlock stitch.  Only one needle is used for 3 thread overlock.  One needle only, as well, for a rolled edge hem.)
• Locate the handwheel and check the manual for which direction it is to be turned.  I have two sergers that turn “top toward me” like my regular sewing machines, but I have one older serger that turns “top away from me”.  Most sergers have an arrow on the side of the machine to indicate direction.  If yours does not, you might want to draw arrows with a permanent marker, especially if it goes opposite your sewing machine.  Open the looper cover. Turn the handwheel and notice how the looper arms move.  If you have a self-threading machine, you may not be able to see the loopers at first and need to open another cover.
• If instructed to do so in the manual, apply a drop of oil to the areas indicated.  Turn the handwheel until the needles are fully raised.
• Locate the upper knife. *** NEVER EVER EVER serge over pins *** That will ruin your cutting blade and possibly cause further damage to your machine, not to mention the danger to you!  Check your manual to find instructions for disengaging the blade.  Practice engaging and disengaging the cutting blades.  On my machine, the holder is pushed to the right and then the knob is turned until the blade is raised up and out of the way.  On my friend’s serger, the upper blade is pushed out and lowered out of the way.
• Locate the presser foot lift lever.  Raise and lower the presser foot.
• Locate the power cord and foot pedal cord.  Insert them into the machine as directed, but don’t plug the machine into the electrical outlet yet.
• Locate the items in your accessories that have to do with threading.  Anti-vibration cones, spool caps, looper threader, and tweezers.  The anti-vibration cones are meant to help stabilize large cones of thread so that they don’t wobble as you sew.  They can be turned up or down and adjusted so that they work best for your brand of serger thread. If you are using large regular spools of thread, you’ll want to remove the anti-vibration cones and use the spool caps instead.  These caps prevent the thread from catching on the spool itself.  When a serger is used for actually stitching a seam, the left needle thread is the one that could possibly be visible from the outside along the seam line.  A large regular spool of thread can be used as the needle threads, but be very careful trying to use regular spools for the looper threads.  Loopers use a LOT of thread.
• ALWAYS THREAD IN ORDER!  ***  Many headaches can be avoided by threading in the proper sequence.  If a looper thread breaks, you must re-thread completely in the proper sequence or the chain will not form properly.
• We will be using 4 thread overlock, a 3 thread overlock, and a 3 thread rolled edge hem in our sew-along, so check your manual for how those are set up on your machine.

Week One Tasks:

• Watch the “Threading Your Machine” videos posted above. In those videos, I demonstrate step by step how to thread an older manually threaded style serger and get set up to do a 4 thread overlock stitch.  Then I do a test stitching, analyze the quality of the stitch, and make changes to tweak the stitch tension.  I also demonstrate a short-cut method for thread color change, without having to completely re-thread the machine.
• If you want a quick project to practice on for this week, eliminate the left needle and follow the instructions in your owner’s manual to set your machine for a 3 thread overlock or a 3 thread rolled edge.  Serge around a few squares of fabric to create some napkins for your dolls or try serging around the edges on one of the scarf patterns available on larougetdelisle.

Here are a few step-by-step images to complete that project: