Hi Everyone! In Part 4 we wrap up the topic, Sewing Tiny Gifts, with a special treat! Shari is here to show is how to create a doll-sized Marionette Theater. Follow along and create one for your collection too!

When I was a kid, my grandpa gave me and all my cousins marionettes for Christmas. We LOVED them. It was so much fun trying to get them to walk, wave their hands, and even dance. We created a makeshift theater by throwing a blanket over my bed and spent most of the day creating little plays and putting on shows for our parents and grandparents.

In this tutorial, I am going to show you how to make a doll size marionette theater. It is definitely a step up from a blanket over a bed and just the thing for your kids and their favorite doll to entertain themselves and everyone else during the holidays and beyond!

The pattern is available separately here: Thimbles and Acorns Marionette Theater

Once you have your theater made, it's time to get your marionette puppets strung up and ready to go! You can use any of the Cute Felt patterns or the two mini dolls, Charlotte and Pandora. Choose your desired handles and create your play!

New Years Eve is the perfect day to set up your new theater and perform your puppet show! 

Here are a few other things to get you ready for your New Year's Eve celebration too:

How to Make Doll-Size Sparklers 

How To Make A Doll-Sized Checkerboard

Hi Everyone! This week we wrap up our sew-along for the Alice Springs dress and explore the Aussie style in more detail. We'll kick things off with the final video in the sew-along series, sewing the tiered ruffles and finishing the back of the dress. Then we'll explore the Aussie theme as we take a look at the current Kira Bailey wardrobe and do a little compare and contrast with the patterns available on larougetdelisle. There are so many possibilities to create wardrobe items that are similar to what's available or to create new and unique looking styles that fit into the Aussie theme perfectly!

Alice Springs Dress Sew-Along Part 4: The Tiered Skirt and Finishing the Dress

Ok, we've made it to the final steps and are just about finished sewing the dress! The video shows the skirt tiers from View A. These have a gentle inverted curve in the design, creating a slimmer silhouette. The process for sewing the View B tiers would be the same except for of the side seams at each tier. Follow along in the video below to finish your dress with us!

Congratulations! Your dress is finished! We'd love to see what you've created. You can share pictures for everyone to see in the SWC FB group or directly in the Inspiration Gallery. 

Aussie Style - The larougetdelisle Collection Can Make It Happen!

Join me in this video as I walk you through the different outfits that make up the Kira Bailey collection from American Girl. In Part 1, we took a look at the color palette; in this section, we go a bit further and look at the different pieces and the overall outfits that make up the collection.  

My intention here is not to have you copy everything they've created, but more to get an understanding of how they've used the color palette and theme to create a collection. We can see similarities with existing patterns on larougetdelisle and can create similar looking pieces, but I also encourage you to use the information to add your own unique twist to the Aussie theme that's gaining in popularity since the release of the 2021 Girl of the year collection has become available.

Here's a breakdown of the outfits and patterns shown in the video. All the images of Kira are used for illustration and educational purposes; these images are ©American Girl:

The Meet Outfit and Accessories:

I love this outfit! The style is rugged and yet a bit feminine too. Look for patterns that have topstitching detail and cargo pockets. Mix in a girly touch with the colors like fuchsia and blue to balance the tan and olive in the overall look.

Patterns recommended to "get the look":

• JenAshley Go Everywhere Anorak Jacket
• QTπ Utility Jacket
• JenAshley Safari Skort
• 123 Mulberry Malibu Cargo Pants/Shorts
• Doll Joy Joy Tee
• QTπ Forget Me Knot Top

The Comfy Camping Outfit:

This is a great look! The casual fit of the outfit really shines with the bold color palette and embroidered details. You can create something similar to this with a variety of overall or romper designs. Choose something that will work with a lightweight fabric and a design that has simple lines. Or create a more rugged look with classic overalls but remember to bring in the girly charm with embellishments or vibrant color choices.

Patterns used to "get the look":

• LJC Culotte Jumpsuit
• Jelly Bean Soup City Casual
• LJC T-Shirt
• Miche Fleur Sandals
• Headband with a Twist Tutorial

Find a few video tutorials showing how to do decorative stitched by hand or by machine here too:

• Machine Stitches
• Hand Embroidered Stitches

The Wildlife Care outfit & and Wallaby Set:

Pink scrubs, yes please! This outfit is full of energy and fits with the theme nicely by adding in an occupation that could actually be happening anywhere, but here it's paired with the Wallaby accessory set to really solidify the Aussie theme!

Patterns used to "get the look":

• LUB Scrubs
• LJC T-shirt Variations
• Sew Urban Reversible Hobo Bag
• Summer Tote Pattern Hack

 There are also a lot of accessories by brand like Our Generation (Target) and My Life As (Wal-Mart) that have a medical or vet theme. Finding a tiny koala or Kangaroo may be more of a challenge though, but be on the lookout and let us know if you find one!

The Casual Outfit:

Soft and feminine, perfect for spring and summer, this outfit would be darling for pretty much any theme! 

Patterns used to "get the look":

• LJC Denim Jacket
• LJ T-shirt
• LUB Wrap Skirt (hacked to be longer and add a ruffle along the hemline)
• 123 Mulberry Trendy Maxi Skirt
• F18 High-Low Circle Skirt

Check out our tie-dye posts here too:

• How to Tie-dye clothes for dolls
• SWC Posts that show a variety of dying technique and examples

The Koala Pjs:

An Aussie theme wouldn't be complete without a Koala! These pj's are so adorable and the slipper, oh my! Too cute! The garments are made from basics, like a tee and leggings, but the colors, print, and embellishment really steal the show here!

Patterns used to "get the look":

• LJC Leggings
• LJC Piccadilly PJ pants (or the pants int he Yoga Pants pattern) add ribbing detail to create this look.
• QTπ Fast Track Suit
• Miche Animal Slippers
• Crafty Lil Turkey Koala Hoodie Hack
• Create a cute set of Koala Themed Pjs and Koala Embellishments with the new Prog Princess Fashions Koala themed pattern too!

Looking for Koala printed fabrics? There are quite a few on Etsy, but judging the scale is a bit of a challenge.

I did see this Koala Fabric on JoAnn Fabrics, it's customizable so you can get it printed at any scale you'd like - pretty cool! It also comes in a variety of colors that you can pick and choose from to create custom fabric.

Here's an example of a cute applique, cut from a piece of fabric to create a coordinating PJ set (for a baby). I saw this on Etsy and thought it would provide a bit of inspiration for creating something for your dolls.

Here's an example of an iron-on design that can be purchased, ready to apply to your project. This one is from JoAnn Fabrics, but you could look at stores like Hobby Lobby, Micheal's, and Wal-Mart too. I'd also recommend checking out what's available on Amazon

Aussie Style Accessories:

We have a lot of accessory patterns to fill out any outfit you might be putting together.

• When making a backpack, add some leather trim to highlight the rugged style.
• If you're making a hat, choose a design with a wide brim, and fabrics like burlap, microsuede or even felted wool. Add a brightly colored ribbon or trim to give your hat some personality! 
• Add the Koala flair with the Koala Hoodie pattern hack! Use this same concept to add a koala look to your slippers or even a tee!
• Make some accessories for your pets too! Find the pet bed, pet carrier, and a wagon to pull it all around with!

Hi Everyone! I hope you've taken some time to explore the Aussie color palette and get a sense of the fashion styling to capture the overall essence of this theme. In Part Two, we continue the sew-along for the Alice Springs Dress. In the third video of the sew-along, we will be working on sewing the collar to the dress bodice. This is the trickiest bit of the pattern assembly, mostly because of the scale, but with a bit of practice and attention to detail, it all goes together nicely! 

If you haven't started your project yet, please refer back to part one to get familiar with the pattern, choose your fabric, and sew up the bodice front and front placket.

Are you ready to continue? Let's go!

In this video, we will sew the collar to the dress bodice. The collar has been cut with 4 pieces of fabric. In our demonstration we have the printed fashion fabric (cut 2) and the solid lining fabric (cut 2). The solid colored fabric will be referred to as the collar facing.

To begin I recommend stay stitching the bodice neckline just inside the 1/4" seam allowance stitching line. Then clip into the seam allowance to be able to spread it open to match the curve of the collar.

The most important thing with the collar is to place it properly along the neckline. The shoulder notch is key! Place this first lining up with the shoulder seam of the bodice. The two pieces curve in opposite directions, which may seem incorrect; but with a bit of stay stitching and clipping into the seam allowance, the pieces fit together as intended.

Continue to line up the seam line towards center back. Here you will see a 1/4" extended overlap. Then line up the seamline towards center front, carefully spreading the bodice seam allowance open to curve along the collar piece. When you reach center front there will be excess extending past CF. Because the collar at center front angles in slightly, the over lap is close to 1/2" at the raw edge of the seam allowance. This is fine! You'll notice that when you fold the collar up away from the bodice that you will lose quite a bit of that overlap as you get to the interior neckline edge. You need to be able to sew a 1/4" seam allowance up CF and along the top edge of the collar, so just double check that there is space to do that at center front before stitching the collar in place.

Too much excess at center front is better than not enough here!

Next, we trim that seam allowance to reduce bulk in this tiny collar interior. Then the collar facing (with bottom edge pressed under along the larger curve) is placed right on top of it and stitched from center back across the interior neckline edge and down to center front. Be sure to stitch at a 1/4" seam allowance and be sure that the seam allowances are pointing up towards the collar at CF and CB so that they turn to the inside when the collar is turned right side out. This collar is designed to be pretty small to fit with the overall scale of the design. 

Tip: You can draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric to be sure you stitch this properly, especially at CF. The two CF edges should be the same as each other, it will be pretty obvious if they are not because they sit almost side-by-side. Alternately, you can count your stitches as you pivot at CF and then stitch the same on the opposite side.

I'd recommend turning the collar right side out at CF before trimming the seam allowances just to be sure the two CF's match. If they don't you can try to even it out while you still have the full piece. 

Once everything looks good, trim those seam allowances and turn the collar right side out. 

Okay! You did it! How does it look? 

Now continue with the pattern instructions to finish the stitching on the neckline, sew the elastic casing on the sleeves, set the sleeves, and sew the dress bodice side seams. 

Next week in part three we will continue with the tiered ruffle section and finish up the dress! We'll also explore the full Kira Bailey™ collection and share with you thoughts and ideas to sew up a variety of pieces using larougetdelisle patterns to capture that Aussie Theme!

Hi Everyone! In Part 2 we begin the sew-along for the E=dK² dress. To participate in the sew-along, you can purchase the pattern HERE. If you'd like to use this month's coupon code, you can find it listed on the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section.

Gather up all the necessary supplies, read through the pattern to familiarize yourself with the assembly process and techniques used.

In this first lesson we will be constructing the bodice and working through the sleeve in view A. 

To create professional looking items, there are many tasks that need to be done during construction that should never be seen when the finished garment is worn.  Three of which are symbol marking, staystitching, and understitching.

The more complex a pattern is, the more important accurate symbol marking becomes.  It’s a good idea to keep the pattern pieces close by during construction so they can be referenced if needed to confirm a dot or symbol placement.

Staystitching is one of those hidden tasks of construction that can seem unnecessary but makes a huge difference in the finished result of a project. It helps prevent stretching of the bias (or diagonal) areas during construction as well as reinforcing the curves and corners where the seam allowance will need to be clipped.  For staystitching, use a slightly shorter stitch length and stitch just inside the seamline.  Try to be as accurate with this as with the seam itself, so there’s no need to remove unwanted visible staystitches later.  Going a little slower for accuracy can save time in the long run.

Understitching is another step that is tempting to just skip, but it can make all the difference in the finished neckline as it helps prevent the lining from being visible on the outside of the garment. This row of stitching is done on the lining/facing after the seam allowance has been clipped so that it lays flat around the curves. It should be about a 16th of an inch from the neckline seam. It holds the lining/facing to the seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the understitching to reduce bulk. 

For another look at staystitching (at 9:50 minutes in) and reducing bulk check out the tips outlined in this video from our Couture Sewing series:

The versatile E=dK2 pattern is labeled as “Advanced”, but with the videos as a guide, an experienced beginner could have the confidence to give these raglan sleeves a try. Follow along as Donna highlights some of the instructions and takes a step by step look at the construction of the sleeve in View A. 

Most any lightweight woven fabric can be used for this dress.  Quilting weight cotton is easy to find and works well for a casual style dress.  Bridal satin or crepe type fabric has a nice body and drape that works well and results in a more formal looking dress. The sash is best done in a silky or chiffon type fabric.  You could substitute a soft ribbon or beaded trim along the waistline as a special accent instead of the sash.

Once you’ve constructed the bodice and sleeve portion following the video, you can move on with the side seams and skirt construction.  This pattern features an invisible zipper closure at the center back. 

For a great tutorial about installing an invisible zipper be sure to check out this video from our Sewing With Zippers series:

These videos, from the Sewing machine Presser Feet series, go into more detail about using a zipper foot and an invisible zipper foot too!

Hi Everyone! In part 4 we have a special treat - a brand new Liberty Jane pattern and a full video sew along to go along with it! The Snuggle & Store Tote Bag is a recreation of one of my most treasured childhood keepsakes. When I was a kid, my mom had a small sewing business and she began making these cute "diaper bags" for all the baby showers in town. When she made me one for my eighth birthday, I was thrilled! I used it to store my Kimberly doll and all her clothing creations that I attempted to make! I still have that bag today and am so excited to bring this to you as a new pattern design. My hope is that you can use it to create a special and meaningful gift for someone that you know too!

As a reminder, all of the coupon codes, download links, and monthly bonuses can be found in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section. If you haven't used this months pattern coupon code yet, you can use it to get this pattern at no additional charge. You could also wait a few days and use the February code if you like.

Ok, are you ready to sew this together? 

Step 1: Download the Snuggle & Store Tote Bag pattern, it's listed in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section currently. It will be listed, site-wide soon, but it's available to you early as an SWC member! 

This bag will fit a variety of dolls, such as Wellies, Bitty Baby, and other dolls shorter that 15-inches.

Also - Please don't feel rushed with this project! I'm already thinking that we will work this sew along into the February topic as well. There's so much to cover and techniques that can be used in other ways, like creating and using piping, inserting a zipper and more. 

Gather up all the needed supplies:

• 1 1/8 yards fabric (outside of bag) We used a pinwale corduroy in both of our examples. If you use a different type of fabric (where the grain isn't visible) you can cut the zipper placket horizontally instead of vertically, which requires less yardage.
• 1 yard fabric (lining)
• 1/2 yard fabric for contrasting bed top (optional)
• 7 yards piping (3 packages)
• 1 yard eyelet ruffle trim
• Thin layer of batting to back all of the lining pieces
• Double pull #3 zipper 40-inch minimum length OR two 18-inch zippers (we used the60" Meillia Double Slider Zipper found on Amazon)
• Sewing Machine
• Zipper Foot
• Double sided basting tape (optional) 

Just a thought... If this seems like too big of a project to tackle, I've heard that you can "shrink down" a design like this to 35% and it will work as a scaled down version for an American Girl Doll to carry! Maybe that seems like a more exciting project to attempt? I am planning on working on that scenario over the next week or so and may add it into the pattern as a bonus, but feel free to try it out on your own!

Here's an overview of the supplies and prep steps you'll want to do to get ready to sew the bag:

And Here We Go...

 Continuing to Part 2:

As a reminder, all of the coupon codes, download links, and monthly bonuses can be found in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section.

Doll Clothes Storage Topic Overview:

This month, we will look at several ways to store and organize your "Fashion in Miniature" clothing items. The topic will be divided into a 4-part series: 

• In part one, we will do a sew along of Liberty Jane's Dress Form pattern.
• In part two, we will show you a few container storage options for things that might not hang well.
• In part three, we will show you a few of our go-to hanging storage options.
• In part four, we will introduce our newest pattern - The Baby Doll Storage Tote - with a sew along video.

The Dress Form Sew Along

Ok, now let's jump into the sew-along! Follow along as I show you how to sew the 18" doll size Dress Form. This pattern is probably one of the most popular patterns on larougetdelisle. The dress forms are perfectly proportioned to fit 13" to 18" doll clothes. It is fast and easy to make and a fun way to display some of your favorite doll outfits.The pattern available as a bundle or in separate sizes. If you don't have it yet, then this is the pattern we recommend you use this months coupon code for!

This project is super easy to sew and can be made from a variety of non-stretch fabrics. I'm using a custom printed fabric that I had made through Spoonflower. It's a nice quality Kona Cotton. You can use vibrant prints or something more subtle and classic like an unbleached cotton. The choice is yours!

A Few Notes on Supplies:

The fabric, felt, and poly-fil stuffing are all fairly easy to find (or something you might already have on hand). 

The acrylic gems can usually be found in the floral department at your local craft store. Here's a link to them on Etsy or you can paint a 1" wooden ball (also available at a local craft store or online.

The base is made from a purchased candlestick, you can use something decorative or find a bulk package of wooden candlesticks and paint them with craft paint.

Hot glue gun: After recording this video and being frustrated with my super shot cord and unstable glue gun/cardboard stand, I came across this genius cordless glue gun. I ordered it immediately, but don't actually have it yet. I thought I'd mention it anyway, just in case any of you have the same frustration! Lynn Lilly Edition Mini Cordless Glue Gun

Ok, now it's your turn! This is such a fun and easy project to make! It's a great storage prop to have in your studio or in any room of the house! I hope you'll jump in and create one, or several, today!

As a reminder, all of the coupon codes, download links, and monthly bonuses can be found in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section.

Here's a bit on this exciting topic from Shari:

From their humble beginnings as simple shepherds caps throughout Ancient Europe, berets quickly became a common and practical form of head wear among peasants. This smart little cap eventually attracted the attention of soldiers, artists, and aristocrats alike, transforming the common beret into a symbol of strength and style. Shepherds made the first berets by felting and shaping the wool that was readily available to them. Today, berets are fashioned from a wide range of materials in a variety of styles.

This month, we will look at ways you can make your own variations of this wonderful little cap. The topic will be divided into a 4-part series:

• In part one, we will do a sew along of Liberty Jane's 6 paneled Newsboy Cap and Beret pattern.
• In part two, we will show you how to tailor your favorite beret pattern to get a professional fit and finish.
• In part three, we will show you how to add a hat band and a few embellishments to a basic beret pattern to give it a whole new look.
• In part four, we are going to show you how you can easily resize ANY sewn hat pattern to customize the fit for your favorite doll... or person.The Newsboy Cap & Beret Hat Sew-Along

The Newsboy Cap & Beret Hat Sew Along

Ok, now let's jump into the sew-along! Follow along as I show you how to sew both the Newsboy Cap and the Beret Hat for 18" dolls. This pattern has just been updated and the download links were sent out last night to anyone who already purchased this pattern in the past. If you don't have it yet, then this is the pattern we recommend you use this months coupon code for!

This hat is super easy to sew and can be made from a variety of fabrics. I'm using a sweater knit for the Newsboy variation and a sparkly sequined fabric for the beret. For both variations, I'm using a poly-blend lining and have applied some Fray Check® to the edges to keep things sized properly (tip from last months topic!).

That wasn't too bas, was it? This is such a fun and easy project to make! It's a great accessory for a variety of outfits and styles! I hope you'll jump in an sew up a hat or two!

Follow along in the video posted below to continue with the step by step demonstration for sewing the coat. Then take a look at the other videos provided to get a more in-depth look at the details. Shari shares her Freezer Paper Buttonhole technique, Melinda shares her Quick Tips for controlling bulk, and I share a few basic buttonhole foot tutorials too!

 Piccadilly Peacoat Sew-along Part 4: Finishing The Coat

Button Hole Tutorial, with Shari

Button Holes on a Bernina and experimenting sewing a faux buttonhole, start at 3:00 minutes in.

Sewing Basics: How To Use a Buttonhole Foot

Quick Tips With Melinda: Controlling Bulk

Congratulations! Your Peacoat is finished! 

We'd love to see your finished coats! Be sure to share them in the SWC Faceboook group for all to see!

Next week we will take a look at a quick and easy pattern hack to create a simplified peacoat (no pleats).

Reminder: If you're looking to downlaod any of these videos, click on over to the the SWC Bonuses page to get the link and password for this months topic collection on Vimeo.

In this post you will find several videos broken apart into smaller sections. I think this will make it easier to sew the coat in sections, which will allow you to take breaks and jump back in when you have time to work on the next part of the coat.

If you haven't gathered up all of you supplies yet or are uncertain which fabric to use, be sure to refer back to the Sewing With Wool Topic Overview post. You'll also find links to the patterns and many resources too!

But, before we begin the in-depth sew-along video series, I wanted to share with you a list of "Tips For Sewing With Wool Fabrics"

TIPS FOR SEWING WOOL

1. PATTERNS – Select a pattern that is suited to the wool fabric you have chosen as there are different types of wool and wool blends. A light weight wool or wool blend works well for the doll scale. With proper care, it can be sharply tailored, so be sure to double-check that your pattern cutting is very precise, to get that perfect fit.
2. CUTTING – Nice sharp scissors will make all the difference when cutting. For straight edges, use a rotary cutter and cutting mat if you have one. Pattern weights or magnets work well to keep the fabric flat when cutting.
3. NEEDLES – Use a heavy needle for the bulky wool items and test on a scrap first.  A regular 90/14 needle has worked well for me. If your fabric is a lighter-weight wool you may want to try a thinner needle, such as an 80/12 sized needle. Whatever size you are using, make sure it's a fresh needle so it's nice and sharp to help it get through the layers easily. A ball-point needle is usually the best option for a wool fabric. It has a rounded tip that easily slips through the fibers without snagging or cutting them.
4. THREAD- if your polyester thread is breaking, try a silk thread which is stronger. In general, you want to match the fiber in the thread you're using with the fiber in your fabric. This means that seams will have the same response to washing, drying, and wear as the rest of the garment. With wool, however, that's not an option. Instead, try silk thread, which has similar properties. It's not strictly necessary—a polyester-wrapped cotton thread will also work well in most situations. With lightweight wool, however, silk thread provides a superior finish, especially with decorative stitching.
5. PRESSER FOOT - If you're sewing with bulky coating fabrics it's a good idea to lower the presser foot pressure on your machine, if your machine lets you do so. This will make it easier for thick fabrics to pass through the machine and will avoid squishing all the layers as you sew.
6. STITCH LENGTH - If you're sewing with a thick coating fabric, it's a good idea to slightly lengthen your stitch to around 3mm. A lighter weight coating will need a stitch length of around 2.5mm. If you're not sure what stitch length to use, try it out on a scrap of fabric and increase the stitch in small increments until you've found the length you're happy with. 
7. SEAM FINISHES – Sewing wool which is bulky will need graded seams where the seam allowance is cut away in layers. This is a bit different than simply trimming the seam allowances. Grading seam allowances simply means to trim one seam allowance narrower than the other. By grading one seam allowance narrower than the other you'll reduce the bulk in the seams. This makes it much easier to press as there's less fabric in the seam and gives a much neater result overall.
8. PRESSING – Press every step of the way with a pressing cloth and if you are steaming, be sure you have tested steam on the fabric as part of the preparation process. Some wool shrinks so it is important to regulate the use of steam and heat. Coating fabrics require a bit of care when pressing. Turn the iron down to a medium-low temperature (many irons have a wool temperature setting), use plenty of steam and only press from the wrong side without a press cloth. If you press the on the right side of the fabric, you'll definitely want to use a pressing cloth to avoid any shiny residue that may be left on the fabric. A press cloth can be silk organza, a plain lightweight colorless cotton (like a tea towel). 
9. PRESSING TIPS: To avoid seam impressions from the right side after pressing, place some card between the seams before pressing - this will add a barrier between the coat and the seams and will stop from the shape of the seam being seen from the right side. You can also use pliers or a wooden clapper to really flatten bulky seam allowances especially at the corners, but be sure to use the press cloth here too!
10. LININGS – Lining is the perfect way to finish a wool or wool blend garment! It creates a smooth silky interior, making it easy to get the coat on and off, and it also beautifully hides all the interior seams. Good choices include rayon and polyester. Add a little "surprise & delight" with a patterned lining to finish off your garment.

The Piccadilly Peacoat Sew-Along

Ok, now let's jump into the sew-along! Be sure to keep these things in mind as we sew the Piccadilly Peacoat together!

First we'll take a look at the pattern details, the supplies needed, and how to cut it out.

Now we will begin the sew-along! In this first video we will sew the coat back.

In this next video, we will sew the coat front and the collar.

In this next video we continue with the sleeves and sewing the side seams.

Tip: Here's the video we referenced showing how to shape a sleeve cap. With this design specifically, there shouldn't be any fabric shrinkage at the stitching line, simply along the seam allowance edge. It is very minimal, but makes a nice different in the shaping of the sleeve cap when the coat is finished!

Phew! That is a lot of sewing! I think it's time we take a break and get ready for the next session (next Tuesday) where we will sew the lining and then finish up the coat!

Hi Everyone! In Part 4 we wrap up our sew-along with a closer look at sewing variation four. This on-trend style features a two-piece swimsuit top with a full off the shoulder ruffle. For this demonstration, we've paired it with the low-waist bottom to complete the look. Follow along to see how to sew this design and then grab your fabric and create one for your own collection.

Supplies and Resources:

• The orchid purple solid swimsuit fabric is from Fashion Fabrics Club (online).
•  If you're having a hard time finding swimsuit fabric, I encourage you to look at the clearance sections of stores like Target or Walmart, as the seasons change from summer to Back to School, many of the swimsuits will go on clearance. Look for the biggest sizes you can find! Another resource is those stretchy book covers that will be popping up in the back to school sections (or sometimes at the dollar store). These work great for doll-size swimsuits!
• Flat Elastic can be found locally at stores like Wal-Mart, JoAnn, Hobby Lobby, etc. I'd recommend minimum lengths of 1 yard per swimsuit.
• The stretch mesh fabric can be found with the swim/dance fabrics. This can be hit or miss, look for one with 4-way stretch. 
• 1/8" width Double Sided Basting Tape (Amazon)

Ok, let's get started with the Variation One Sew-Along! 

In this tutorial, we are going to sew the two-piece design with the full off the shoulder ruffle. This design uses a full two-piece back (without the deev V). We will also make the low-waist bottom using the FOE elastic.

• You will need pattern pieces Two-Piece Front and Two-Piece Full Back
• For the Bottoms - Two-Piece Bottom Front and Two-Piece Bottom Back (cut at the low-waist cutting line)
• FOE elastic - 1 yard cut into the lengths listed on the measurement chart. 
• Thread that matches your elastic color.
• Double-sided quilters tape (1/8" recommended), optional but I love this!

Follow along in the video to make this swimsuit in the 18-inch doll size. This variation is similar to the Variation 1 and 2 tutorials, but for this one, we will demonstrate an alternate way to attach the ruffle. I encourage you to try this technique and compare the other method to see which construction assembly method you prefer. The two-piece bottom is sewn the same as the variation 3 demonstration but this one is sewn with the FOE instead of the flat elastic.

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

Week Four Task:

• Watch the Variation Four Sew-Along video. Follow along and make your own two-piece swimsuit!
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this HERE )
• Follow along and make the Variation Four swimsuit and be sure to share it with the group!
• BONUS CHALLENGE! Mix it up and create a new variation. maybe it's a two-piece top with the smaller ruffles, or add a ruffle to the waistline of the two-piece bottom. Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. We'd love to see what you make!

I'll be demonstrating these methods using several different variations from the Liberty Jane Swimsuit Variations pattern for 18-inch dolls. Follow along to see how easy it is to make these adorable swimsuits! The pattern is also available for 14.5" - 15" dolls!

Patterns Used For this Topic: 

• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 18" Dolls
• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 14.5-15" Dolls

Hi Everyone! In Part 3 we continue with our sew-along as we tackle sewing variation three. This darling style features a two-piece swimsuit top with tie back. We've paired it with the high-waist bottom to complete the look. Follow along to see how to sew this design and then grab your fabric and create one for your own collection!

We're excited to announce that the 14.5" -15" Swimsuit Variations pattern is now available too! This pattern has been sized to fit WellieWishers and Ruby Red Dolls.

Supplies and Resources:

• The blue floral print swimsuit fabric is a Liberty London fabric (no longer available, sorry!) If you're having a hard time finding swimsuit fabric, I encourage you to look at the clearance sections of stores like Target or Walmart, as the seasons change from summer to Back to School, many of the swimsuits will go on clearance. Look for the biggest sizes you can find! Another resource is those stretchy book covers that will be popping up in the back to school sections (or sometimes at the dollar store). These work great for doll-size swimsuits!
• Flat Elastic can be found locally at stores like Wal-Mart, JoAnn, Hobby Lobby, etc. The pink elastic featured in this tutorial was something I picked up while browsing antique shops. So be on the lookout, you never know when you might come across some great finds st unexpected places! I'd recommend minimum lengths of 1 yard per swimsuit.
• 1/8" width Double Sided Basting Tape (Amazon)

Ok, let's get started with the Variation One Sew-Along! 

In this tutorial, we are going to sew the two-piece design with the deep "V" dip at center back that closes with a tie made from the elastic. We will also make the high-waist bottom using the flat elastic in place of Fold Over Elastic.

• You will need pattern pieces Two-Piece Front and Two-Piece Tie Back
• For the Bottoms - Two-Piece Bottom Front and Two-Piece Bottom Back
• Flat elastic - 1 yard cut into the lengths listed on the measurement chart. 
• Thread that matches your elastic color.
• Double-sided quilters tape (1/8" recommended), optional but I love this!

Follow along in the video to make this swimsuit in the 18-inch doll size. This variation follows the original swimsuit pattern which features regular shoulder straps. The swimsuit top has an angled back with the addition of the tie that wraps around the empire waistline. The two-piece bottom is also similar tot eh original swimsuit pattern but has the addition of the waistline elastic to finish it off.

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

Week Three Task:

• Watch the Variation Three Sew-Along video. Follow along and make your own two-piece swimsuit!
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this HERE )
• Take some time to practice sewing on some small scrap pieces of swim knit fabrics. Try out different needles, stitch lengths, and stitch selections.
• Follow along and make the Variation One swimsuit and be sure to share it with the group!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

I'll be demonstrating these methods using several different variations from the Liberty Jane Swimsuit Variations pattern for 18-inch dolls. Follow along to see how easy it is to make these adorable swimsuits! The pattern is also available for 14.5" - 15" dolls!

Patterns Used For this Topic: 

• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 18" Dolls
• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 14.5-15" Dolls

Hi Everyone! In Part 2 we continue with our sew-along as we tackle sewing variation 2. This darling style features a one-piece swimsuit with an off the shoulder strap with ruffles that spread just over the arms. It's similar to the first style we demonstrated, with the full ruffle, but the method of attaching the ruffle is a bit different. Follow along to see how to sew this design and then grab your fabric and create one for your own collection!

Supplies and Resources:

• The tiny stripe fabric used in this tutorial is from The Fabric Fairy. The blue print paired with the coral is a Liberty London fabric (no longer available, sorry!)
• Fold Over Elastic can be found locally at stores like Wal-Mart, JoAnn, Hobby Lobby, etc. Look in the baby cloth diaper supplies, or even with the craft supplies, hair products, etc. You can also find a variety of colors and prints on Etsy, just search "Fold Over Elastic" and you'll see so many to choose from. I'd recommend minimum lengths of 1 yard per swimsuit.
• 1/8" width Double Sided Basting Tape (Amazon)

Ok, let's get started with the Variation One Sew-Along! 

In this tutorial, we are going to sew the one-piece design with the full off the shoulder ruffle that has a deep "V" dip at center back.

• You will need pattern pieces One-Piece Front and One-Piece Back
• Ruffle - two cut from the Ruffle pattern piece
• Fold Over elastic - 1 yard cut into the lengths listed on the measurement chart. 
• Thread that matches your elastic color.
• Double-sided quilters tape (1/8" recommended), optional but I love this!

Follow along in the video to make this swimsuit. The body construction is pretty much the same as Variation 1. So for this video, we've already sewn the side seams and the elastic on the arms and legs (same as variation 1) and we begin with the off the shoulder strap and ruffle. Be sure to watch this to make sure you space the elastic properly and place it on the swimsuit as instructed to get an optimal fit. Once you determine how your machine sews the elastic, you can adjust your elastic length to be exact (probably 16 inches), currently, it is designed to have a bit of excess at the ends because every machine is different.

Style tip! The off-the-shoulder straps can easily be pushed up over the shoulder too, creating a super cute new ruffled strap look! Yay!

Week Two task:

• Watch the Variation Two Sew-Along videos. Follow along and sew a swimsuit in this style!
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
• If needed, Take some time to practice sewing on some small scrap pieces of swim knit fabrics. Try out different needles, stitch lengths, and stitch selections.
• Follow along and make the Variation One swimsuit and be sure to share it with the group!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

If you are new to SWC or simply need a refresher on sewing with swimsuit fabric, here are a few videos that go over everything in detail.

Here are a few more videos that are good to reference. The original Free Swimsuit pattern covers the basics as well as sewing in detail with thee fold over elastic.

This is an overview of sewing with fold-over elastic in more detail:

I'll be demonstrating these methods using several different variations from the Liberty Jane Swimsuit Variations pattern. Follow along to see how easy it is to make these adorable swimsuits!

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

Patterns Used For this Topic: 

• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 18" Dolls
• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 14-15" Dolls

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the Swimsuit Variations Sew-Along! Over this four-part topic, we will take a deep dive into the new pattern with sew alongs for many of the variations. Throughout the course of this topic, we will cover many issues that arise when sewing with swim fabrics, such as the stitch types that work best, the recommended needles and machine settings, and the use of fold-over elastic. As we sew up each variation you will be able to practice different techniques and gain confidence for sewing with this finicky fabric!

The topic will be divided into four sessions:

• Part 1: Topic Overview, Swimsuit Fabric Basics, and the Variation One Sew Along
• Part 2: Variation Two Sew-Along
• Part 3: Variation Three Sew Along
• Part 4: Variation Four and Five Tops Sew-Along

I'll be demonstrating these methods using several different variations from the Liberty Jane Swimsuit Variations pattern. Follow along to see how easy it is to make these adorable swimsuits!

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

Watch the overview video for this months topic:

Patterns Used For this Topic: 

• LJ Swimsuit Variations for 18" Dolls
• Watch for the 14-15" doll size to be released later this month!

Supplies and Resources:

• The print swimsuit fabric used in the sew-along was purchased at Liberty London (last summer). It's made from recycled materials, like plastic, it's pretty amazing, but unfortunately, they don't sell it anymore (insert sad face). The company that makes the fabric is Econyl, I think you can search around and find other suppliers of this same type of swimsuit fabric, but the colors and prints will vary. The blue floral on the cover and blue print used in  Variation 2 are also Liberty fabrics.
• The orchid purple solid ruffle is from Fashion Fabrics Club (online).
• We got a few recently from Fabric Fairy, they came pretty quickly too! Daisy Print Variation 6 is one example, but they have lots to choose from!
• Fold Over Elastic can be found locally at stores like Wal-Mart, JoAnn, Hobby Lobby, etc. Look in the baby cloth diaper supplies, or even with the craft supplies, hair products, etc. You can also find a variety of colors and prints on Etsy, just search "Fold Over Elastic" and you'll see so many to choose from. I'drecommendd minimum lengths of 1 yard per swimsuit.

Ok, let's get started with the Variation One Sew-Along! 

In this tutorial, we are going to sew the one-piece design with the full off the shoulder ruffle that has a deep "V" dip at center back.

• You will need pattern pieces One-Piece Front and One-Piece Back
• Ruffle - 30" x 1-1/4"
• Fold Over elastic - 1 yard cut into the lengths listed on the measurement chart. 
• Thread that matches your elastic color.
• Double-sided quilters tape (1/8" recommended), optional but I love this!

Follow along in the video to make the swimsuit. The body construction is pretty much the same as the original Free Swimsuit pattern, with the exception of the partial arm elastic. The off the shoulder ruffle instructions begin at 4:00 minutes into the video. Be sure to watch this to make sure you space the elastic properly and place it on the swimsuit as instructed to get an optimal fit. Once you determine how your machine sews the elastic, you can adjust your elastic length to be exact, currently, it is designed to have a bit ox excess at the ends because every machine is different.

Here's a close-up shot of the finshed swimsuit. Notice how the thread color becomes part of the design and is hidden in the elastic. The biggest tip here is to be sure to keep the stitching inside the edge of the elasitc, don;t let it creep over onto the fabric!

If you are new to SWC or simply need a refresher on sewing with swimsuit fabric, here are a few videos that go over everything in detail.

Week One task:

• Watch the Topic Overview and the Variation One Sew-Along videos. Take some notes, get things prepped and organized.
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
• Take some time to practice sewing on some small scrap pieces of swim knit fabrics. Try out different needles, stitch lengths, and stitch selections.
• Follow along and make the Variation One swimsuit and be sure to share it with the group!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Here are a few more videos that are good to reference. The original Free Swimsuit pattern covers the basics as well as sewing in detail witht he fold over elastic.

This is an overview of sewing with fold over elastic in more detail:

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3 of the Sew Along! This week we will add the borders, work on the quilting and finish up with the binding to make the Tropical Illusion quilt!

As with the first sew-along, these next few steps are easy enough to do, simple cutting and sewing straight seams, but they require a good amount of attention to detail! My best advice is to slow down, take your time, look at the pattern and read it carefully. 

Follow along in the video as I show you how to work through Part 3, borders, quilting, and binding. For this part, you will first need to have parts 1 and 2 completed. Then grab your remaining pieces and follow along as we finish up this project!

Special Note: My daughter (Liberty) came home from college unexpectedly this past week because of all that is going on around us. This was a blessing in disguise! She is a film production major and jumped at the opportunity to take over film production for me on this last project. She worked with me to film from different angles (you'll see lots of close-ups!) and has lots of ideas for future video-based training! Many of you may remember little Liberty from back in 2009 when we first kicked off "Liberty Jane," it's so fun for me to have her circle back to this as an adult and join us in such a meaningful way! Anyway, I hope you enjoy the video and have a great time finishing up your quilts!

Week Four Task:

• If you haven't done this yet... Download the pattern. Read over the instructions to familiarize yourself with the process. Take some time to play around with color combinations and fabric choices. Cut and sew your strips. Then cut the blocks, the triangles, and create your quilt top (See part 1 and part 2 sew-along posts).
• Watch the video for this week.
• Cut the 1" Strip into two lengths two at 16.5" and two at 12".
• Sew the borders to the quilt top, long sides first.
• Cut the 1.5" strips into two lengths. two at 17" and two at 14.5"
• Sew the borders to the quilt top, long sides first.
• Cut your remaining pieced strips into 2"  pieces and sew them together to make long border strips. 5 for each long side and 4 for each short side.
• Sew the strip border to the quilt top, long sides first.
• Sandwich your quilt with the batting and the quilt backing.
• Quilt through all three layers, following the seam lines of your choice.
• Trim off excess batting and quilt back.
• Sew on binding to all four raw edges. 
• Phew! That's a lot of sewing! But, congratulations!! Your quilt is finished!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Tools needed:

• Rotary Cutter
• Acrylic Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Iron & Ironing Board

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the Part 2 Sew Along! This week we will begin to transform our long strips into intricate blocks and combine them all to make the Tropical Illusion quilt top. These next few steps are easy enough to do, simple cutting and sewing straight seams, but they require a good amount of attention to detail! My best advice is to slow down, take your time, look at the pattern and read it carefully. 

Follow along in the video as I show you how to work through Part 2, cutting and sewing the blocks. For this part, you will first need to have all your 4.5" strips sewn (from part 1). Then grab your rotary cutter, acrylic ruler, cutting mat and you'll be ready to go!

Special Note: I mentioned this was my first quilt, right? Well after editing the Part 2 video, I noticed that I accidentally pieced my final 6 blocks incorrectly (compared to the pattern image for the intermediate quilt). Take a look at the image below to see where I went wrong. When you get to this part in the video (timestamp 11:00 minutes )be sure to sew the top and bottom blocks together opposite the center section to achieve the look of the "cover quilt".  I'm including a picture below of the side by side comparison. Honestly, I think it looks fine and that's the nice part of this design, there are many ways this could go together. I just wanted you to see the error here before you followed my lead in the video! My mustard color is the same as the brown in the "cover quilt". There are six 4.5 inch blocks at this point in the process, the top two and bottom two should have been flipped so the mustard color was in the center (like the brown).

Week Three task:

• If you haven't done this yet... Download the pattern. Read over the instructions to familiarize yourself with the process. Take some time to play around with color combinations and fabric choices. Cut and sew your strips.
• Watch the video.
• Cut your Strips into 4.5" squares. For the quilt top you only need 12 total, so you don't need to cut all your stips at this point. The remaining part will be used for the border.
• Cute each 4.5" square into 4 triangles.
• Divide the 12 blocks into 2 sets of 6.
• Fromt he first set of 6, combine triangle 1 and 4 into a small square and 2 and 3 into a small square. 
• From the second set of 6, combine triangle 2 and 3 and 1 and 4 into small squares.
• Combine the 4 squares into two sets of rectangles.  Then piece the rectangles together to make the blocks. You should have 6 total blocks.
• Piece the blocks together to create the quilt top.
• Phew! That's a lot of sewing! Now it's time to take a little break...
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Tools needed:

• Rotary Cutter
• Acrylic Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Iron & Ironing Board

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the Part 1 Sew Along! This week we will take a more detailed look at the pattern and begin to sew our quilts - yay! If you haven't downloaded the Tropical Illusion doll size quilt pattern and gathered up all your supplies, I recommend you look back at last week's post to get all the details. 

Follow along in the video as I show you how to work through Part 1, cutting and sewing the strips. For this part, you will first need to choose the version you are making. The tutorial will walk you through sewing the intermediate version, so it might be best if you choose to do that one first :) The "intermediate" reference is regarding the piecing of the triangles, not the sewing. Being that we have the video to guide you, the intermediate version shouldn't seem too difficult even if you are a beginner, like me!

Week Two task:

• If you haven't done this yet... Download the pattern. Read over the instructions to familiarize yourself with the process. Take some time to play around with color combinations and fabric choices.
• Watch the video.
• If you plan to have your doll quilt be washable, prewash and dry your fabrics first.
• Print out the layout diagram and use it to decide what fabrics will be assigned to numbers 1-4.
• Create a chart with fabric swatches to make the strip sewing much easier!
• Cut all your strips. Six one inch strips of each of the four fabrics, then two 1.5" strips for #3 and two additional 1" strips plus two 2" strips of fabric 4. The strips are cut on the full width of the yardage (42 - 44 inches wide), this will work fine for metric as well, there is room in the measurement for some extra length.
• Optional Note: If you want to use fat quarters, you'd just need to double the amounts (cut 12 strips instead of 6), you don't need to piece them together because we will cut them into 4.5" blocks. I haven't tried this, but I believe it should work fine for the blocks, but the borders might need piecing.
• Choose your backing fabric and cut that out as well. For our quilt, we've used fabric #4 as our backing fabric.
• Set your strips in order and begin sewing them together. Press the seams to set them and then press the seam allowances to one side as you sew the 8 strips together. 
• Repeat two more times to create three strips that measure 4.5" wide.
• Phew! That's a lot of sewing! Now it's time to take a little break...
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Part 3: Time to cut the blocks, and triangles and piece together our quilt top!

Overview of the two variations and supplies needed:

Gather up all the supplies and fabric needed for the Tropical Illusion Quilt project.

Main Version Fabrics Needed: 

• 4 Colors of coordinating quilting fabric as follows
• 1⁄4 yd. Green (#1)*
• 1⁄4 yd. Brown (#2)*
• 3⁄8 yd. Blue (#3)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Purple (#4)*
•  5⁄8 yd. Backing Fabric

Version 2 Fabrics Needed:

• 4 Colors of coordinating quilting fabrics as follows
• 1⁄4 yd. Tan (#1)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Pink (#2)*
• 1 yd. Dk. Gray (#3)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Lt. Gray (#4)*

Supplies Needed for both versions:

• Safety Pins
• Straight Pins
• Thread
• Batting 18” x 24” (cotton batting may be used or 2 layers of flannel will give a more flexible feel to the finished quilt.)

Tools needed:

• Rotary Cutter
• Acrylic Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Iron & Ironing Board

Hi Everyone! It's March and it's National Quilting Month - Yay! Fun fact - I have never personally sewn a quilt - eek! Have you? I just returned from the Quilt Con in Austin, and I'm feeling a little inspired to try something new!

Well, luckily, my sister and fellow pattern designer Terah of Lilie Stone, is an avid quilter! Over the course of this month, we will use the beautifully designed Tropical Illusion doll size quilt pattern and create a stunning quilt at the small doll scale! 

This pattern might look complex, but the method used to piece together the block is pretty simple - or at least it looks that way! So don't fret if you aren't a quilter :) We will be learning together as we create this keepsake piece! And if you don't want to use it for your dolls, you can keep it as a wall hanging in your sewing room or studio!

Housekeeping Details: March is a 5 Tuesday month, so for this first post we will go over the topic, the outline for the month, talk through the supplies needed, and give you time to gather up everything needed to begin the sew-along next week (Tuesday, March 10th).

Sewing The Doll Size Quilt Topic Will Include:

• Part 1 - Topic Overview, Review the Pattern, Gather up supplies
• Part 2 - The Sew Along Part 1
• Part 3 - Sew Along Part 2, explaining and demonstration the two variations
• Part 4 - Finishing the quilt
• Part 5 - Accessorizing the bed with sheets, Pjs, and cute little plush felt toys to complete the look!

Are you ready? Let's go...

There aren't any videos yet, we will add them starting next week. Stay tuned! 

Week One task:

• Download the pattern. Read over the instructions to familiarize yourself with the process. Take some time to play around with color combinations and fabric choices.
• This is a fun opportunity to use up a variety of quilting cottons. With Spring and Easter on the horizon, it's a fun time to think about creating a bright and cheery look for the new season or as a gift!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Part 2: We'll kick off our quilt sew along!

Prepare for next week:

Gather up all the supplies and fabric needed for the Tropical Illusion Quilt project.

Main Version Fabrics Needed: 

• 4 Colors of coordinating quilting fabric as follows
• 1⁄4 yd. Green (#1)*
• 1⁄4 yd. Brown (#2)*
• 3⁄8 yd. Blue (#3)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Purple (#4)*
•  5⁄8 yd. Backing Fabric

Version 2 Fabrics Needed:

• 4 Colors of coordinating quilting fabrics as follows
• 1⁄4 yd. Tan (#1)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Pink (#2)*
• 1 yd. Dk. Gray (#3)*
• 1⁄2 yd. Lt. Gray (#4)*

Supplies Needed for both versions:

• Safety Pins
• Straight Pins
• Thread
• Batting 18” x 24” (cotton batting may be used or 2 layers of flannel will give a more flexible feel to the finished quilt.)

Tools needed:

• Rotary Cutter
• Acrylic Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Iron & Ironing Board

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3 of Miniature Millinery! This week we are introducing a new pattern, the 1940's Pleated Felt Hat, and have a full tutorial video to go along with it! The pattern is available to be redeemed with your February discount code, or you can simply choose to purchase it!

For this weeks project, you will need to make the same basic felt hat that we made in week one, except don't cut out the brim, this new design includes a new pattern piece to create this stunning pleated shaped hat!

Supplies needed for this project, beyond the first set of basic supplies:

• 13 inches of 1/2-inch wide ribbon for the hat band,
• a 12 inch square of lightweight fabric for the lining.... synthetic lining, batiste, voile, or silk work well for this.
• A tapestry or leather needle
• Buttonhole thread 
• Some small feathers or other similar embellishments if you'd like to jazz up your hat a bit.

 Week Two Task:

• If needed refer back to the video for Part 1, and follow along to make the basic molded felt hat first, but don't cut the brim! Then follow along with this new design to create a darling 1940's inspired hat!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. Be sure to tag Shari there so she gets notified and can respond quickly!

Miniature Millinery - Molded Felt Hats Part Two:

We encourage you to watch the video (or download it from the link above to watch offline).  

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 2 of Miniature Millinery! This week we go a step further and mold the basic hat into a Molded Tricorn Hat. It's fun to see how adding just a few new design elements creates a totally different look!

Now that you have your basic felt hat, you have endless options for finishing it! In this example, we're going to make a simply trimmed tricorn hat to walk you through the basics of finishing and shaping a felted hat. Once you've mastered that, you can embellish these hats to your heart's content!

 Week Two Task:

• If you haven't completed the project in Part 1, you'll want to jump back over to that post and follow along to make the basic molded felt hat first. To do that, You'll need to click over the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section, and download pattern piece pages for the brim of the cockade/tricorn hat. Review the supply list below and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies. Then watch the video and follow along to see how it's all done!
• Now you can follow along to create the molded tricorn hat variation! Be sure to look over the supply list for this project. Gather up all the things you'll need and follow along as Shari walks you through making the Molded Tricorn Hat!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. Be sure to tag Shari there so she gets notified and can respond quickly!

Miniature Millinery - Molded Felt Hats Part Two:

We encourage you to watch the video (or download it from the link above to watch offline). But we know that the written instructions can also be preferred. Follow along below for the breakdown of the entire process:

Supplies Needed:

• 1/2 yard (0.5m) fabric for lining and trim 
• 14-inches 1/2-inch wide ribbon for the hat band 
• 6-inches ( 25 cm) 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide ribbon for cockade band 
• One 3/8-inch (9 mm) decorative button 
• 6-inches ( 25 cm) 2-inch wide satin ribbon for a cockade 
• Perle cotton, narrow ribbon, or embroidery floss for tacking the hat brims 
• Thread 
• Tapestry or Leather needle 

 (Continuing from part 1)

Step 11: If the hat will feature a cockade band, fold the 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide ribbon for the cockade band in half to form a loop, being careful not to twist the ribbon. Pin the ends of the ribbon side by side on the top edge of the brim where indicated on the pattern piece. Baste to secure. 

Bias Trim

Step 12: Cut the bias trim to the proper length. Being careful not to twist the bias trim, pin the ends right sides together. Stitch and press the seam allowance open.

Note: To distinguish the topside from the underside of the hat, the underside is left unshaded in the illustrations. 

Step 13: Pin one edge of the bias trim along the outer edge of the brim with the right side of the bias trim facing the underside of the brim. Stitch with a 1/2-inch (12 mm) seam allowance. 

Step 14: Turn the bias trim over the edge of the brim, pulling gently so that the bias trim lays at along the seamline underneath. Turn the raw edge under so that the folded edge lines up the with seamline on the upper side of the brim and pin in place. Hand stitch or machine stitch to secure. Press the brim using plenty of steam to set the seams and tighten up the trim around the edge of the brim. 

Step 15: Make a hat band by cutting a length of 1/2-inch (12 mm) wide ribbon about 1-inch ( 5 cm) longer than the circumference of the crown of the hat along the brim. Stitch the ends together using a 1/2- inch (12 mm) seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side. Place the hatband around the crown of the hat so that the seam is at the side or the back. Tack the hat band to the crown at the seam allowance. 

Step 16: Bring the cockade band to the underside of the brim and mark the inside bottom of the loop. Stitch a decorative button at the mark and fasten the band over it.

Step 17: Press and steam the hat brim to so en the felt. Once it feels pliable, turn up the brim along the fold lines where indicated on the pattern. You don’t want to crease the brim, only curl it along the fold lines. If necessary, spray the brim with a little bit of water to make it easier to manipulate the felt. Use your finger to smooth and curve the folds. The felt will stiffen up again as it dries. Pin the brim to the crown of the hat at the dots, adjusting the position so that the tacking points are evenly spaced on either side of the centerline. Use your fingers to smooth and shape the brim as desired, spraying with a little water as necessary to work out any creases. Use water only as necessary to avoid distorting the shape of the rest of the brim. Once you are happy with the shape, let the hat completely dry. 

Step 18: A er the hat has dried, use a leather or tapestry needle to tack the brim in place at the tacking points with a perle cotton, embroidery floss, ribbon, or string. 

Lining The Hat 

Step 19: Pin two sets of lining pieces right sides together and matching the notches. Stitch. Clip the curves and press the seam allowances open. 

Step 20: Pin the two lining sections right sides together, matching the notches and seam lines. Stitch. Clip the curves and press the seam allowances open. Stay-stitch the lining 1/4-inch (6 mm) om the bottom edge. 

Step 21: Turn the bottom edge of the lining under along the stay-stitching and pin it inside the hat along the bottom edge of the crown. Being careful not to crush the hat while you work, whipstitch the lining to the crown to secure. 

Step 22: Pin the ends of the cockade ribbon right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and turn right side out. 

Step 23: Sew two rows of running stitches down the center of the cockade ribbon. Draw the running stitches up to gather the cockade into a bow. Tack the ends of the thread securely at the back of the cockade. 

Step 24: Place cockade in cockade holder, tack in place to secure, if necessary.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Miniature Millinery! I'm excited to announce that Shari Fuller, the designer of the Thimbles and Acorns brand, will be my co-host once again, follow along as she shares with us her knowledge and experience of this topic!

Nothing makes a statement quite like a stunning hat! This month, we are really excited to make a statement with all of you as we begin exploring the topic of Miniature Millinery. In this first series, we are going to learn some basic techniques for making felt hats using The Thimbles and Acorns 18^th century Molded Felt Hat pattern.

The topic will be divided into four parts:

• This first week, in part one, we will make a round hat block that we will use to mold felt fabric into a simple wide-brimmed hat.
• In part two, we'll take the process a step further as we learn how to trim and shape our plain wide-brimmed hat into a classic 18^th century tricorn.
• In part three, we are going to see how cutting and folding can turn a basic hat into a spectacular 1940s art deco hat.
• Finally, in part four, we'll turn things upside down when we create a fun and modern Breton style hat.

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

Week One Task:

• You'll need to click over the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section, and download pattern piece pages for the brim of the cockade/tricorn hat. Review the supply list below and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies. Then watch the video and follow along to see how it's all done!.
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. Be sure to tag Shari there so she gets notified and can respond quickly!

Miniature Millinery - Molded Felt Hats Part One:

We encourage you to watch the video (or download it from the link above to watch offline). But we know that the written instructions can also be preferred. Follow along below for the breakdown of the entire process:

Supplies Needed:

• 4-inch styrofoam ball, the closed cell type
• 6 1/4-inch wide rubber bands, that fit snugly around the styrofoam ball
• Serrated knife
• Buttonhole thread for cutting the styrofoam ball
• Four pins, preferably T-pins to hold the hat on the styrofoam hat block
• Cornstarch or choice of Fabric Starch
• Soap
• Old towel for pressing the hat (towel should have minimal texture and may get stained)
• 12-inch square of felt

Suggested Fabrics:

• Wool or wool blend felt 
• Synthetic felt will work, but won’t look as nice
• Lightweight lining fabric, batiste, muslin, lawn, voile, or silk for hat lining

Preparing the hat block:

For this project, cut a 4-inch styrofoam ball in half to make the two hat blocks. The easiest way to cut these balls is to cut a shallow ridge with a serrated knife around the hemisphere of the ball. Have one person hold the ball firmly while another person draws a length of buttonhole thread around the back of the ball through the ridge in a sawing motion. The thread will slice neatly through the ball. Scrape any excess foam om the center bottom so that the hat block lays at. That’s it, your hat block is ready to use!

Preparing the starch solution:

Step 1: Feel free to use one of the many fabric stiffening products available in stores for this project. However, a simple solution of corn starch and water works quite well, costs practically nothing, and creates very little waste. 

2 cups cold water
1 Tablespoon corn starch 

Corn Starch Hat Stiffener 

Mix the corn starch and water together in a small saucepan until the corn starch is completely dissolved. Using medium heat and stirring constantly, bring the mixture to a boil. Alternately, mix the water and cornstarch together in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high, stirring every minute or so to help prevent lumps, until the mixture comes to a boil. Cover and set aside to cool while you prepare your hat.

Molding the Hat: 

Step 2: Fill a clean sink or dishpan with hot soapy water. The water should be about the temperature of dishwater with a generous squirt of dish soap or whatever type of soap you prefer. Soap isn’t really necessary for this project since we are using material that has already been felted, however, it does make it easier to manipulate the fabric. 

Step 3: Dip the felt into the soapy water, soaking it thoroughly. Wrap the wet felt around the hat block, centering it at the top and secure it around the bottom edge of the hat block with a rubber band. 

Step 4: Pull the edges of the felt, stretching it around the hat block to smooth out the puckers. Continue to smooth and stretch the felt until all the puckers are worked out on the hat block. Adjust the placement of the rubberband and dip the felt back in the hot soapy water as necessary. 

Step 5: Once the felt is smooth on the hat block, rinse it thoroughly in the cold water. 

Step 6: Leave the molded hat on the hat block and lay it on a layer of old towels. Use smooth towels as any texture om them will transfer to the hat brim during the flattening process. Spread the edges of the felt out around the hat block to form a brim and adjust the rubber band so that it lays evenly along the bottom edge. Push hat pins into the hat block just above the rubber band to hold the felt and rubberband in place. 

Step 7: Use your fingers on one hand to hold the hat along the rubber band and gently pull the edges of the felt with your other hand to stretch and flatten the brim. Working from the outer edge, press the brim at with a hot dry iron. The heat and steam om the wet felt will help to draw the fibers together to reshape and smooth the felt. Continue working around the outside of the brim, moving toward the hat block as the fabric smooths and flattens. Once you get to the hat block, work the edge of the iron up to the rubber band to form a sharp crease between the crown and the brim of the hat. 

Step 8: Once the hat brim has been flattened and smoothed, dip the hat and hat block in the stiffener, completely saturating the felt. Carefully squeeze out any excess stiffener and lay the hat back on the towel, smoothing the brim out with your fingers. If there are any lumps in your stiffener, remove them om the fabric or rub them into the fabric until they disappear. Let the hat air dry. If preferred, you can use a purchased stiffening product for this step. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 9: Once the hat is dry, smooth and flatten the brim with a hot iron and plenty of steam. If necessary, spray the brim with water to increase the steam. Take special care to run the edge of the iron around the edge of the hat block to get a sharp crease between the crown and the brim. 

Cutting the Hat Brim 

Step 10: Pin the hat brim template to the hat and cut the brim accordingly. Transfer the cockade placement markings to the upper side of the brim and the tacking point markings to the underside of the brim. Carefully remove the hat from the hat block.  

Step 11: If the hat will feature a cockade band, fold the 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide ribbon for the cockade band in half to form a loop, being careful not to twist the ribbon. Pin the ends of the ribbon side by side on the top edge of the brim where indicated on the pattern piece. Baste to secure. 

Bias Trim

Step 12: Cut the bias trim to the proper length. Being careful not to twist the bias trim, pin the ends right sides together. Stitch and press the seam allowance open.

Note: To distinguish the topside from the underside of the hat, the underside is left unshaded in the illustrations. 

Step 13: Pin one edge of the bias trim along the outer edge of the brim with the right side of the bias trim facing the underside of the brim. Stitch with a 1/2-inch (12 mm) seam allowance. 

Step 14: Turn the bias trim over the edge of the brim, pulling gently so that the bias trim lays at along the seamline underneath. Turn the raw edge under so that the folded edge lines up the with seamline on the upper side of the brim and pin in place. Hand stitch or machine stitch to secure. Press the brim using plenty of steam to set the seams and tighten up the trim around the edge of the brim. 

Hello Everyone! The very snowy start we've had to our holiday season here in Minnesota was the inspiration for this week's design hack for The Silk Road dress pattern. Using reverse appliqué, we are going to create two snowman sections that will build on each other with each wrap of the dress.

Reverse appliqué is a needlework technique in which two or more layers of cloth are sewn together with decorative outlines and the cloth is then cut from the outlines to reveal a specific layer of cloth underneath. The cut edges can be turned under for a more finished look, but to give the snowman in our project a softer outline, the cut edges of the applique are left raw and frayed. For the perfect finish, the dress trim is omitted and two of the ties are replaced with scarf ends so that the snowman is not only decorative, but also a functional part of the dress. Use the templates I've provided and watch the video below to learn how to make this fun and easy snowman dress - just in time to celebrate Christmas!

To get started, you'll need to download the Thimbles and Acorns Silk Road pattern. Look over the pattern, review the supply list and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies.

To make the Wrap a Snoman variation, you need a few additional supplies. Please download the free supplemental PDF to get the full tutorial and additional template pieces for the applique. Other than that, the supplies are the same.

Tutorial Download:

Grab the full PDF download in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonus section, here: Wrap A Snowman Pattern Hack

 Week Three Task:

• Watch the Sew-Along Pattern Hack video and follow along with your project.
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. Show us what you're working on and post your questions in the facebook group under the announcement video for this month. Be sure to tag Shari, so she sees your questions and can respond quickly!

Hi Everyone! This week I'm jumping in to share a super cute pattern hack of the Silk Road Dress design! After a bit of experimentation and creative thinking, I've settled on a darling little top made by tweaking a few pieces and modifying the construction just ever so slightly!

The original design included several great elements that I wanted to keep when modifying it into a top. The wrap & tie front, of course! But I also wanted to keep the cross over back neckline, while removing the double wrap element. Watch the video below to follow my process and see how I modified the pieces to create this cute little top!

To get started, you'll need to download the Thimbles and Acorns Silk Road pattern. Look over the pattern, review the supply list and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies.

To make the top, you need just a 1/4 yard of fabric. Other than that, the supplies are the same.

 Tutorial Highlights:

• Start - 4:15 Overview and pattern piece modification.
• 4:15 - 5:10 Cut pieces and construction
• 5:10 - 7:50 Instruction modification for the Neckline/Back
• 7:50 - 9:20 Back Construction, side seams
• 9:20 - End Finishing the top

The main changes to this pattern are the modification to remove the "double wrap" which alters the construction method a bit. 

When following the pattern instructions, you'll want to stop at Step 5 and sew the lining to the fabric along the neckline as shown in the hack video.

Instead of tacking the ties down where marked on the original pattern, they will be placed in the underarm side seams 1/2" down from the raw edge (one in the lining on wearer's left and one in the fabric on wearer's right). The two ties in the front are the same.

Sew the side seams after you have overlapped the back as shown in the hack video!

You can continue to add trim or simply finish the top without trim - the choice is yours!

 Week Two Task:

• Watch the Sew-Along Pattern Hack video and follow along with your project.
• Show us what you're working on and post your questions in the facebook group under the announcement video for this month. Be sure to tag Shari, so she sees your questions and can respond quickly!
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Hi Everyone! With Christmas only a few short weeks away, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to take a closer look at wraps. Instead of wrapped packages, however, we will explore the topic of wrapped garments. To help get you started, we have a special Christmas gift for you – a brand new pattern from Thimbles and Acorns!

“The Silk Road” is a unique double-wrapped dress pattern that was inspired by an ancient Chinese design and will only be available to Sewing with Cinnamon subscribers through the month of December. It is a quick and easy pattern to sew that lends itself well to adaptation, making it a great project for holiday gift-giving.

For this topic, I'm excited to announce that Shari Fuller, the designer of the Thimbles and Acorns brand, will be my co-host! This week, she will walk you through the pattern with a sew-along video and over the next couple of weeks Shari and I will each share a fun pattern hack to help get your creative juices flowing. We are really excited to see all of your projects!

Merry Christmas Everyone!

(The announcement video posted in the SWC Facebook Group):

The topic will be divided into four sessions:

• Part 1: Sew Along For The Silk Road Dress
• Part 2: Pattern Hack 1, with Cinnamon
• Part 3: Pattern Hack 2, with Shari
• Part 4: Happy Holidays!

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

To get started, you'll need to download your free copy of the Thimbles and Acorns Silk Road pattern. Look over the pattern, review the supply list and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies.

 Week One task:.

• Watch the Sew-Along videos and follow along with your project.
• Show us what you're working on and post your questions in the facebook group under the announcement video for this month. Be sure to tag Shari, so she sees your questions and can respond quickly!
• Check out the Ultimate Resource Guide for fabric and supply sources. (Find this in the SWC Bonuses section)
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to part 2 - the 123 Mulberry Street Gotchies Sew Along! This is a great way to practice the techniques demonstrated in the prior section as well as learning a few new things. This design has a few hemmed edges, so we will take a look at sewing them with a twin needle to allow for a clean finish and stretch in the seamline. This design also uses flat fold over elastic in a little bit different way than the Free LJ Swimsuit. We will be using the twin needle here as well and the result is fantastic! 

The 18" Gotchies pattern has been revised with a fresh clean look, new instructions, same great pattern. The 14.5" Gotchies is now available as well! You can use this pattern to make swimsuits or cute cotton knit undies! Mix and match fabrics and elastics to create a variety of looks!  

Are you ready to start the sew along? Let's go...

Watch the Gotchies sew along video below:

Patterns Used For this Topic: 

• LJ Free Swimsuit
• LJ Rashguard & Swim Shorts
• 123 Mulberry Street Gotchies (will be used for the part 2 sew-along demonstration) Available for 18" AG, 14.5" WW, and KNC dolls.
• Patterns found in the larougetdelisle Swim Shop Collection 

Week two task:

• Get your pattern.
• Choose your fabric, elastic, and notions.
• Watch the Sew Along Video. Follow along as we make some super cute Gotchies together!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Still to come:

Hi Everyone! This week we get to take a look at other ways to upcycle and other items that work really well for creating Fashion in Miniature. This is one of my favorite ways to shop for fabrics and embellishments. The authentic look and feel of the finished pieces come together so well when you can use the right types of materials. Depending on the recipient, you can look for the upcycle pieces almost anywhere. If you are making items for your own collection or as gifts, you can comfortably use items you may already have or gently used things you pick up at thrift stores or yard sales. If you are making items to sell, you'll want to be on the lookout for those clearance racks or the extra savings days at discount stores. You may begin to feel like a bit of a treasure hunter!

I'm including two videos this week, and will not post next week because of the Christmas holiday.

The first video - Upcycled Examples and Tips -  is a look at some pieces I've picked up and the garments I've turned them into. There are so many different types of garments to be on the lookout for!

In the second video - Upcycling From Start To Finish - I'm going to walk you through a project from start to finish using a beautiful fuschia sweater and the 123 Mulberry St Trendy Slouch Cardigan. Follow along and watch my process!

Pattern Overview (designs featured in this weeks video)

• Liberty Jane Cropped Sweater For 18" Dolls 
• Tutorial post - Make a Cardigan From the LJ T-Shirt pattern
• LJ Pullover Sweater for 18 " Dolls
• LJ Pullover Sweater for 14.5" Dolls

Week Three and Four tasks:

• Be on the hunt for items to upcycle. This is a great time of year to take advantage of special offers and clearance sales, especially after the holidays!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Hi Everyone! Are you ready to tackle another fun project using socks? This one works great with socks that have a print design that can be worn in any direction - things like stars, stripes, dots, etc. For this tutorial I'm using the top of the sock ribbing as the waistline of the sweater, so the sock will be flipped upside down to create the cropped cardigan look. We're using the Liberty Jane Cropped Sweater pattern, but flipping it around so it opens at center front. There are two options for the center front opening, use basic binding or go one step further with a separating zipper. The end result is fantastic and super adorable!

Are you ready to jump in and tackle this project? Let's go...

In the videos posted below, I walk you through the process of making this super cute cropped cardigan. I've covered both the binding and the zipper front opening. You can use them interchangeably.

Pattern Overview (designs featured in this weeks video)

• Liberty Jane Cropped Sweater For 18" Dolls 

Week One task:

• Continue to show me your sweaters - It's so fun to see it all come together!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 3: More Upcycling Secrets!

Hi Everyone! This month is a busy month so I thought it would be fun to create a topic filled with fun and easy upcycling projects! There are so many opportunities to use thing we already have to make super adorable doll items. I'm excited to show you a few of my favorite upcycling secrets!

Throughout this 4 part topic, we will explore our options and experiment using ready-made things as the basis for your projects. To kick things off, I'll be demonstrating a classic - How to make a darling sweater from a pair of socks! This technique can be used to make sweaters for any time of year, but it's perfect for the  2nd Annual Fun and Festive Holiday Sweater Contest!

Over the course of this 4 part topic we will cover:

• Topic Overview (Part 1)
• Pullover Sweater Tutorial (Part 1)
• Cropped Sweater Cardigan Tutorial Hack (Part 2)
• More Fun With Socks (Part 3)
• More Upcycling Ideas (Part 4)

We have so much planned for this course. It's going to be a fun month!

Are you ready? Let's go...

In the videos posted below, I share with you an overview of the month-long topic and then take a deep dive into our first practice tutorial - the "sock to sweater" tutorial.

Pattern Overview (designs featured in this weeks video)

• Liberty Jane Denim Pullover Sweater For 18" Dolls and /or 14.5" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Piccadilly Sweater For 18" AG Dolls, 18" BFC, Ink Dolls, 14" WW Dolls, Disney Animator Dolls, Ellowyne Dolls

Week One task:

• Let's make some sweaters! Go on the hunt for some socks to use for this project. Knee high length socks are best, look for cute prints and festive themes!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 2: The Cropped Sweater Reverse Cardigan Pattern Hack Tutorial.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 4 - For this final installment of Sewing The Denim Jacket we will introduce some pattern drafting skills and add the element of fur to create a "Fur-Lined Denim Jacket"! This style can work great for both boys and girls. The fur lining can be done with a classic faux fur, a soft fleece, or even a vibrant pop of color! The choice is yours, the possibilities are endless!

The tutorial videos are demonstrated on the 18" size pattern. If you want to modify one of the other sizes of the denim jacket, you can use this same technique with any of those sizes too!

In the video posted below, I walk you through the modifications to the Front Yoke and Inside Front pattern pieces and then show you the steps to take to add this modification into the existing Denim jacket Pattern Instructions.

The modification to this design are:

• The Front Yoke and Inside Front will be modified and a third piece (The Front Facing) will be created. This new piece will be cut from the fur.
• The Collar piece will be cut 1 denim cut 1 fur.
• All other pieces will be cut from the denim fabric as directed.
• Sew the Denim Jacket according to the instruction up to Step 23 (using either the faux or flatfelled seam style), then watch the video to see how to attach the facing and finish up the jacket.

Note - this style would be super cute made in a corduroy instead of denim!

Pattern Overview:

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week Four task:

• It's time for a fashion show! I'd really love to see some Denim Jackets posted in the Facebook group :) Style yours up and show us what you've been working on!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 3 -Let's mix things up by adding a few elements of a hoodie to make a cute "Denim Jacket Hoodie"! This style is pretty popular and adds a fun sporty look to the classic style. It's a fun way to mix fabrics and colors to create different looks.

The tutorial videos are demonstrated on the 18" size pattern. We've used the hood piece from the LJ Ruched Hoodie pattern.  If you want to modify one of the other sizes of the denim jacket, look for a hoodie pattern in that size to "borrow" the hood piece from. (Or click over the How To Make A Hood Like A Minion Blog Post to see ideas on how to draft your own hood piece.)

In the videos posted below, you'll see tow variations of this idea. The first, simply replace the collar with a hood and the sleeves are made with the knit (still cut from the existing pattern piece). The second adds the hood layered on top of the collar and adds an additional ribbed waistband piece along the bottom. Both styles look great. I encourage you to try on or both today!

Pattern Overview:

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 
• Liberty Jane Ruched Hoodie (for the hood piece)

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week Three task:

• I know it's a busy week - but if you're working on sewing projects this would be a fun one to squeeze in! Maybe it could be a gift for someone on your list! 
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 3: The Fur Lined Denim Jacket Hack.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to part 2 - the full sew-along tutorial. Now that you've had some time to practice some of the sewing techniques used in the pattern design, we can jump right in and begin making our jackets.

The sew along video is demonstrated on using the pieces from the 14.5" Wellie size pattern. The techniques are the same no matter which size you are making. 

Special Note - The pattern includes cut lines and instructions to make the jacket with flat felled seams (fully enclosed) or faux felled seams (exposed seam allowances, finished with a zigzag or serger). The tutorial is sewn with the faux felled seam style, if you'd like to use the flat felled seam style, refer to the earlier video (pieces are sewn wrong sides together first, not right sides together). Also be sure you have cut the pieces on the correct lines for the corresponding seam style. Blue  - faux felled 1/4" seam allowance. Black Flat Felled 3/8" seam allowance.

Pattern Overview (designs that feature princess seams and sweetheart necklines):

• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 18" Dolls
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 16" AGAT Dolls (Also fits 18" BFC, Ink Dolls)
• Liberty Jane Denim Jacket For 14.5" Welliewishers 

Resource List:

Rivets  - Hobby Lobby

Buttons - Home Sew

Quilters Tape - 1/8" check in stores locally

Wonder Tape - 1/4" Amazon

Design Tape - Draping Tape Amazon

Edgestitch Foot - Low Shank Amazon

1.6mm /80 Twin Needle - Amazon

Denim Fabric (I like the 7 oz. weight stretch denim) - Joann Fabrics

Week One task:

• Let's sew the jacket together! Watch the video and follow along as we make the denim jacket. 
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Week 3: The Hoodie Denim Jacket Hack.