https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon.atom larougetdelisle - Sewing With Cinnamon 2023-03-28T14:07:25-07:00 larougetdelisle https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/sewing-modified-pattern-hacks-modifying-pattern-pieces 2019-03-19T10:00:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:32-07:00 Sewing Modified Pattern Hacks - Modifying Pattern Pieces Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! In part 3 we go a bit deeper into pattern hacking with a look at how to modify pattern pieces. Sometimes a few simple changes can really change up the look of a design!

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Hi Everyone! In part 3 we go a bit deeper into pattern hacking with a look at how to modify pattern pieces. Sometimes a few simple changes can really change up the look of a design!

At the beginning of this course topic, I asked you to submit some ideas for potential hacks. Thanks for all your participation! There are so many great ideas! When I saw this adorable dress posted by Pat, I knew right away it would fit right into this series! The dress has simple lines and a beautiful hi-lo design focal point. With a few tweaks and modifications to the Starlight Gala pattern, I knew I could achieve a similar look. 

For this week's tutorial, I'll be demonstrating on a new dress made with a modified skirt from the Starlight Gala pattern and a simple modification to the bodice front. Follow along with me in the video below to see how I made the changes to the pieces and created something similar to the inspiration image.

 

 

 

Video Timeline:

  • Beginning - 2:00 Overview
  • 2:00 - 6:00 Modifying the Original Hi-lo skirt into a knee length skirt.
  • 6:00 - 12:40 Creating the Hi-lo layer that lays from side to side.
  • 12:40 - 14:45 Finishing details for the skirt layers.
  • 14:45 - 17:36 Bodice modifications

 

Tutorial Highlights:

Cut pieces for the modified design. Solid blue pieces are for the Main Skirt and the Bodice Lining. Floral print pieces are for the Bodice, and Skirt Overlay.

Skirt layers constructed and Bodice ready to attach to the skirt. Notice the hi-lo design is going from the side to the opposite side, mirrored on the front and back, the center back opening is at the top of the photo.

Finished Dress!

 

 

Patterns Used For this Topic (this week):

Liberty Starlight Gala

Liberty Blossom

 

 

Week One task:

  • Watch the videos. Follow along as I show you how to dive right in and modify your existing pattern pieces! Try it out yourself!
  • I'd love to see your pattern hacks if you've done some or try one out for this new topic!
  • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Designer Note: There are many ways to achieve a look like this, the skirt design could be done with a gathered waistline as well. You could also choose to cut the first layer as a circle skirt with a flat waistline seamline and then the top layer with a fuller gathered or pleated waistline. The choice is yours! I encourage you to experiment with different design ideas to see what version you like best!

Next Tuesday - Part 3: Another pattern hacking tutorial!

 

 

 

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https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/sewing-modified-pattern-hacks-starlight-gala-blossom-mash-up 2019-03-12T10:00:00-07:00 2023-09-02T18:13:35-07:00 Sewing Modified Pattern Hacks - Starlight Gala Blossom Mash-Up Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! In part 2 we jump right in and do a mash-up of two of my favorite patterns - Starlight Gala and Blossom! Because these patterns have been drafted using the same set of standardized Liberty jane slopers, they have the ability to interchange the pieces. The determining factor in this design is the waistline of the two garments. Both bodices have the same waistline measurement, so they can easily be swapped to create a variety of unique looks!

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Hi Everyone! In part 2 we jump right in and do a mash-up of two of my favorite patterns - Starlight Gala and Blossom! Because these patterns have been drafted using the same set of standardized Liberty jane slopers, they have the ability to interchange the pieces. The determining factor in this design is the waistline of the two garments. Both bodices have the same waistline measurement, so they can easily be swapped to create a variety of unique looks!

For this week's tutorial, I'll be demonstrating on a new dress made from the Starlight Gala skirt and the Blossom bodice (simplified version with the underlay moved to be an overlay).

Designer Note: I mentioned this in the video towards the end, but wanted to preface it here before you might cut out any of the pieces. The Blossom dress bodice sits a bit higher at the waistline resulting in the dress being about 1/4 -1/2 inch shorter. The original design is pretty short in the front, so you might want to add a bit of length to the Blossom bodice pieces before you cut them out. To do this, simply extend the pieces by adding an additional 1/4-inch "seam allowance" along the waistline edge. Be sure to do this along the waistline edge of all 4 pieces - The Underlay Front and Back and the Simplified Bodice Front and Bodice Back).

 

Follow along with me in the video below!

 

 

 

Patterns Used For this Topic (this week):

Liberty Starlight Gala

Liberty Blossom

 

 

Week One task:

  • Watch the videos. Follow along as I show you how easy it is to combine these two designs into a beautiful new look! Try it out yourself!
  • I'd love to see your pattern hacks if you've done some or try one out for this new topic!
  • Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing.

Next Tuesday - Part 3: I'll show you some design ideas based on your Pattern hacking suggestion posted in the Facebook group.

 

Interested in more pattern hacks? We have a whole blog dedicated to them on larougetdelisle. Here are a few links to some of my favorite:

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https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/specialty-fabrics-hems-bindings-and-facings 2017-12-19T22:30:00-08:00 2023-09-02T18:15:42-07:00 Specialty Fabrics - Hems, Bindings, and Facings Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! This week we continue with a look at finishing the visible edges of these specialty fabrics. Depending on the fabric type, you may need to use an altered technique for the sleeve or skirt hem and possibly the neckline. It can be liberating to know that you can use an alternate fabric choice if you klnow the proper techniques or fabric treatment to make it work for the intended design.

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Hi Everyone! This week we continue with a look at finishing the visible edges of these specialty fabrics. Depending on the fabric type, you may need to use an altered technique for the sleeve or skirt hem and possibly the neckline. It can be liberating to know that you can use an alternate fabric choice if you klnow the proper techniques or fabric treatment to make it work for the intended design.

There are a variety of finishing hems that can be used: a hand rolled hem, single fold hem, double fold hem, faced hem, bias trimmed or ribbon faced hem, and more. Hems are the most traditional way to finsh a garment, they are simple and do the job beautifully. With the information and instruction provided you should be able to choose the right hem for the job with confidence!

Facings are a great alternative to a traditionally hemmed neckline. Facings are cut pieces of fabric, shaped to match the edge of the garment, stitched to the garment with right side together and then turned right side out to create a clean finished edge. In the video, we walk you through how to create a facing from your existing pattern pieces. Once you know how to do this you can become creative with fabric choices and added details like bias trimmed facings!

A binding is a strip of fabric that encases a raw edge. Usually these strips are cut on the bias and can be shaped, by pressing, to match the curve or shape of the garment edge. It can be decorative as well as functional, which make this a fun technique to integrate into your design. Additionally they can be used to finish waistlines and armscyes for that added couture detail!

In the video posted below I am joined by Melinda (of Melody Valerie Couture) to help illustrate some of these techniques. The goal here is to help you have a better understanding of the needs of these fabrics and proivide you with the skills to work with them confidently!

Are you ready? Let's go...

 

 

Pattern Overview:

Patterns By Melody Valerie Couture Shown in the Video:

    Resources (reposted last week):

    Fabric Notes - Depending on where you live, some types of fabrics may be easier to find than others. For doll size projects you can also check discount stores for dresses or tops that can work well for your projects too! The nice thing about these finds is that they usually have coordinating linings and trims included!

    Tools and supplies - Like I mentioned above, you may be able to find these things locally, but just in case.... I've included some links below to some of the useful sewing supplies. I may be helpful to read through reviews under the product listings to be sure you purchase the items that will work best!

    If you like to shop online, check out these sources for specialty fabrics and the tools I recommend:

    Weekly  task:

    • Choose a design and add your creative touch with hem detail or a fabulous facing trimmed with bias! Adding the little bit of "suprise and delight" to the interior of a garment is sure to bring a smile to someones face, or your own! After you create this new garment with these added otouches, you just might keep them for your self!

    Next Tuesday - Week 4: Working with costume fabrics is on the schedule, but we may postpone this one a bit because to the Christmas holiday. I'll keep you updated!

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    https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/specialty-fabrics-linings-underlays-and-seam-finishes 2017-12-19T22:30:00-08:00 2023-09-02T18:15:45-07:00 Specialty Fabrics - Linings, Underlays, and Seam Finishes Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! This week we take a closer look at the specific needs of these lighterweight, more delicate fabrics. Linings are a great way to quickly and easily enclose seams and finish raw edges. Underlays are used to give strength and structure to a softer more flimsy fabric. Both methods are important to understand so that you can confidently swap in a more luxurious fabric type into a favorite pattern that may use quilting cotton as it's primary design choice. These types of fabrics are perfect for some of the more specialty types of seam finishes like French Seams, Flat Felled Seams, and Hong Kong Binding.

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    Hi Everyone! This week we take a closer look at the specific needs of these lighterweight, more delicate fabrics. Linings are a great way to quickly and easily enclose seams and finish raw edges. Underlays are used to give strength and structure to a softer more flimsy fabric. Both methods are important to understand so that you can confidently swap in a more luxurious fabric type into a favorite pattern that may use quilting cotton as it's primary design choice. These types of fabrics are perfect for some of the more specialty types of seam finishes like French Seams, Flat Felled Seams, and Hong Kong Binding. In the video posted below I am joined by Melinda (of Melody Valerie Couture) to help illustrate some of these techniques. 

    The goal here is to help you have a better understanding of the needs of these fabrics and proivide you with the skills to work with them confidently!

    Are you ready? Let's go...

     

     

    Pattern Overview:

    Patterns By Melody Valerie Couture Shown in the Video:

      Resources (added to from last week):

      Fabric Notes - Depending on where you live, some types of fabrics may be easier to find than others. For doll size projects you can also check discount stores for dresses or tops that can work well for your projects too! The nice thing about these finds is that they usually have coordinating linings and trims included!

      Tools and supplies - Like I mentioned above, you may be able to find these things locally, but just in case.... I've included some links below to some of the useful sewing supplies. I may be helpful to read through reviews under the product listings to be sure you purchase the items that will work best!

      If you like to shop online, check out these sources for specialty fabrics and the tools I recommend:

      Week Two Task:

      • Practice, practice, practice! Choose a pattern you're familiar with and mix it up with a new choice of fabric. Be sure to use the proper needle and lining/backing fabrics if needed.

      Next Tuesday - Week 3: Delicate Fabrics, creating hems and using bindings

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      https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/specialty-fabrics-stretch-knits-and-sequins 2017-12-12T22:30:00-08:00 2023-09-02T18:15:35-07:00 Specialty Fabrics - Performance Costumes and Princess Dresses Cinnamon Miles Hi Everyone! We round out this topic with a look at creating both performance costumes and princess dresses. The great thing about many of these designs is that they are simple in construction but the choices in fabrics and embellishments really set them apart! Whether your creating costumes to match little girls or a dress inspired by her favorite princess, the delight and joy you'll be giving to the recipient is priceless!

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      Hi Everyone! We round out this topic with a look at creating both performance costumes and princess dresses. The great thing about many of these designs is that they are simple in construction but the choices in fabrics and embellishments really set them apart! Whether your creating costumes to match little girls or a dress inspired by her favorite princess, the delight and joy you'll be giving to the recipient is priceless!

      I love this topic! Making matching costumes for my daughter Liberty is how I got started in this crazy world of doll clothes design! I'm excited to share what I've learned and hope that this inspires you to create beautiful pieces that in turn create lasting memories!

       

       

       

      I'm also including the video from our knits topic - Sewing With Specialty Knit Fabrics.  

      In this video I'll show you some examples of sewing on swim knit and sewing on a sequined fabric. I've found that sewing with these delicate types of fabrics just requires a bit of patience, and testing to get it right. Be sure to use a new sharp stretch needle (or a ball point needle), I find that this works best. I've used a regular twin needle on the FOE and it works great. If you can find a stretch twin needle, that works well too! For the swim knit, a stretch twin needle is a must, a regular twin needle tends to skip stitches. Download Video HERE

       

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      https://larougetdelisle.com/blogs/sewing-with-cinnamon/specialty-fabrics-topic-overview-and-fabric-details 2017-12-05T22:30:00-08:00 2023-09-02T18:15:46-07:00 Specialty Fabrics - Topic Overview and Fabric Details Cinnamon Miles

      Hi Everyone! Let's talk about - Specialty Fabrics!  Red carpet dresses, Princess costumes, tutus, tuxedos, and whimsical styles are all on the agenda for this topic! Silk Dupioni, Shantung, Chiffon, and Challis.... I love working with these types of fabrics, they bring such an authentic look and feel to the garments. Each piece truly becomes "Fashion in Miniature"! Working with these delicate, slippery fabrics may be intimidating for some, but the results are so breathtaking, I urge you to take that daring step and try something new!

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      Hi Everyone! Let's talk about - Specialty Fabrics!  Red carpet dresses, princess costumes, tutus, tuxedos, and whimsical styles are all on the agenda for this topic! Silk Dupioni, Shantung, Chiffon, and Challis.... I love working with these types of fabrics, they bring such an authentic look and feel to the garments. Each piece truly becomes "Fashion in Miniature"! Working with these delicate, slippery fabrics may be intimidating for some, but the results are so breathtaking, I urge you to take that daring step and try something new!

      My hope is that after this course, you will no longer fear these delicate fabrics and have the confidence to choose a beautiful piece of fabric for your doll garment when desired!

      Are you ready? Let's go...

      In the videos posted below, I share with you an overview of the month-long topic, a detailed look at recommended tools, share fabric and pattern cutting tips, and then take a deep dive into different fabrics, and share some examples. I hope this will encourage and inspire you to break out of your comfort zone and sew with these beautiful fabrics!

       

       

      Pattern Overview (designs with invisible zippers):

        Resources:

        Depending on where you live, some types of fabrics may be easier to find than others. For doll size projects you can also check discount stores for dresses or tops that can work well for your projects too! The nice thing about these finds is that they usually have coordinating linings and trims included! If you like to shop online, check out these sources for specialty fabrics and the tools I recommend:

        • Britex Fabrics in SanFrancisco is my favorite place to shop - if you're ever in the area be sure to check it out!
        • Pacific Fabrics (Northgate store in the Seattle area has a great selection of bridal and formal dress fabrics!) 
        • Fabric Depot (there's a better selection in store but they do have some items online)
        • Schmetz Microtex Sharp Needles - Amazon
        • Dritz Extra Fine Glass Head Pins - Amazon
        • Clover Triangular Tailors Chalk - Amazon
        • Acrylic Ruler -  Amazon
        • 28mm Rotary Cutter - Amazon
        • Freezer Paper -  Amazon
        • Fabrics A to Z by Dana Willard

        Week One task:

        • This first video is pretty long :) After you watch it, be sure to let me know if you have specific questions related to this topic. I'll try my best to add content to address those issues over the next few weeks!

        Next Tuesday - Week 2: Delicate Fabrics, interior finishes, and working with linings...

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