Pressing Matters: Techniques Demonstrated

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Pressing Matters Part 3! 

This week we continue on the topic of pressing with a hands-on look at a few specific pressing techniques that are essential to creating finished garments that look professional! First, we will look at shaping bias. This is so simple to do and makes a huge difference in the application of binding and facings to curved edges. Then we will demonstrate the importance of easing a sleeve cap by pressing with steam to create a perfectly shaped sleeve cap. To wrap up the post we will then demonstrate the difference it makes to set pleats. Taking the time to do these few extra steps when making a garment will really elevate your work and help you to create stand-out pieces!

As we mentioned in Part 1, pressing allows you to shape fabric in a way the cutting and stitching alone cannot. The technique videos below will help to demonstrate this concept in a few hands-on practical examples. I encourage you to watch and then try these out on your own. After practicing a few times these types of pressing practices will become second nature and you will learn to incorporate them into your projects regardless if they are mentioned in the specific pattern instructions.

 

 Technique 1: Shaping Bias

 

After watching this simple technique, you may be wondering "When would I use this?". Here are a few examples of the benefits of a curved bias strip sewn into a garment.

• The Abbey Road Dress design features a curved neckline facing. The raw edge is finished with a narrow bias strip. This is both a functional design element and a bit of a decorative detail to add some "surprise & delight" too! Pressing the bias strip into a curve before sewing it to the edge of the facing make this very easy to do. Using a lightweight cotton lawn for this bias strip also allows for the fabric to shape smoothly without any bulk. It's a nice finishing touch!

Technique 1: Easing A Sleeve Cap

After watching this simple technique, you may be wondering "When would I use this?". Here are a few examples of designs that would benefit from this preparation step.

• The Liberty Jane catalog includes many classic jacket patterns that look great made in wool fabric. The Piccadilly Peacoat and Le Marias Jacket patterns are two great examples. Using this technique to press the curve into the sleeve cap will allow you to set the sleeve smooth and evenly!
• This is Step #34 in the Piccadilly Peacoat pattern instructions. This is the point at which you could insert this technique to "ease the sleeve" into the armscye with a bit more accuracy. To do this, simply sew a few rows of gathering stitches into the sleeve seam allowance, follow the example in the video to press the curve into the sleeve cap. Then continue with Step #35 to attache the sleeve to the coat body.

 

 Technique 1: Setting Pleats

There are many designs on larougetdelisle that feature pleating! I encourage you to think about using this method to set your pleats when you are working on any of these designs. You can use this method with wool or any other type of fabric. This is a basic pleat setting exercise. We also have a full course dedicated to Sewing Perfect Pleats if you're interested in mastering these skills even further, I encourage you to refer to it or check it out!

 

Patterns referenced in this post:

  

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