Hi Everyone! In Part 4, we wrap up the topic of Pressing Matters with a quick and easy tutorial showing you how to make a custom pressing mat. A pressing mat is a great thing to have! It allows you to create a pressing surface anywhere that's most convenient. Sometimes an ironing board is just too big and can only fit into certain parts of the space you are sewing. When you have to press seams throughout your project it can become quite tiring to go back and forth from your sewing machine to your ironing board to complete your project. A pressing mat helps to solve this issue!

The most common pressing mat that you can purchase is a wool mat.

• A wool pressing mat  - these are available in a variety of sizes (and quality). The main selling point is that because it absorbs the heat into the wool, it presses both sides of your fabric at the same time. If you are looking to purchase one of these, I recommend getting one that is 100% wool. If you get a good quality one it will last a long time and work well.  (It shouldn't smell or melt, if it does, it might have a mixed fiber content). I got mine from a vendor (GrannysLegacy) at one of the Quilt Shows, it works great!  

Don't worry though, if you don't have one or don't want to purchase one, we have another solution for you! Shari has provided us with a tutorial to make your own custom pressing mat. The great thing about this is that it's portable, it can be rolled up, and it can be used pretty much anywhere!

How To Make A Pressing Mat:

Supply List:

To make the Pressing Mat in our tutorial, you will need to collect a few supplies. The Pressing Mat is made with the same materials as the ironing board cover (from our earlier tutorial).  Depending on the size mat you want, you can probably make it with the leftover fabric from that project. 

Cover and Backing Fabric – Cut the cover to the size you would like your mat to be and the backing 2" wider and longer. - One piece for the cover and one piece for the backing.

• This fabric should be 100% cotton in a medium weight. Avoid synthetic or synthetic blend fabrics since they have a tendency to trap moisture and don't hold up well to the heat of an iron. Trapped moisture and scorched fabric work together to transfer stains to the fabric you are pressing!

• Choose a fabric with a minimal texture to avoid pressing textures into your fabrics.

• Unbleached muslin is the most practical choice if you are concerned about transferring dyes or other chemicals to your fabrics.

• If you prefer something a bit more exciting, choose a quality quilting fabric in whatever color or print suits your fancy.

• For a durable stain-resistant cover, a Teflon™ coated fabric is the best choice. Teflon™ coated fabric can be found at most large fabric stores or online.

Batting – Cut the same size as your cover fabric. Batting helps to smooth out your pressing surface and provides an airflow that helps the steam and heat from your iron work more effectively.

• The best choice is a wool blanket, washed and dried so it won't shrink later on. The fibers of the blanket are designed to be more stable and less prone to pull apart over time. Wool is naturally heat resistant and does not hold moisture as much as cotton or synthetic fibers. This not only reduces the risk of stains in the fabric you are pressing, but also helps to improve the effectiveness of the steam from your iron. No wool blanket available? Use a couple of layers of wool felt, found on the bolt in larger fabric stores or felt a heavy wool coating by washing in your washing machine in hot soapy water and then running it through the dryer to finish the job.

• Cotton batting is the second best choice. As a natural fiber, it is heat resistant and doesn't hold moisture as much as a synthetic fiber. Cotton batting is pretty thin, so you will probably need to use a couple of layers to get the cushion you want.

• Avoid synthetic or foam batting as they trap steam and are prone to break down from the heat of the iron which could cause stains on the fabric you are pressing.

Thread

Scissors

Ruler

Pencil

Pins

Ok, Let's Get Started With The Pressing Mat Tutorial:

Step 1: Cut your cover fabric and batting to the exact size that you want your pressing mat to be. Make sure the corners are squared for a nice neat finish.

Step 2: Cut your backing fabric 2” wider and 2” longer than the cover fabric and batting. With the wrong sides together, center the cover fabric and batting on top of the backing fabric with the batting in the middle.

Step 3: Turn each corner of the backing fabric to meet the corners of the cover fabric. Press to crease.

Step 4: Turn each folded corner over the 1/2” seam allowance of the cover fabric and pin in place.

Step 5: Fold each edge of the backing under a little less than 1/2”. This allows a little extra space for the batting.

Step 6: Turn each folded edge over the 1/2” seam allowance of the cover fabric. Pin in place, carefully aligning the corners.

Step 7: Topstitch the backing to the cover close to the inside folded edge to secure.

Step 8: To flatten the surface of your pressing mat, steam over the top of the mat thoroughly with your iron to shrink the fabric and batting. As the fabric begins to shrink start pressing the fabric flat, working from the outer edge to the center. Work the fabric into shape being careful not to crease.

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Hi Everyone! Welcome to Pressing Matters Part 3! 

This week we continue on the topic of pressing with a hands-on look at a few specific pressing techniques that are essential to creating finished garments that look professional! First, we will look at shaping bias. This is so simple to do and makes a huge difference in the application of binding and facings to curved edges. Then we will demonstrate the importance of easing a sleeve cap by pressing with steam to create a perfectly shaped sleeve cap. To wrap up the post we will then demonstrate the difference it makes to set pleats. Taking the time to do these few extra steps when making a garment will really elevate your work and help you to create stand-out pieces!

As we mentioned in Part 1, pressing allows you to shape fabric in a way the cutting and stitching alone cannot. The technique videos below will help to demonstrate this concept in a few hands-on practical examples. I encourage you to watch and then try these out on your own. After practicing a few times these types of pressing practices will become second nature and you will learn to incorporate them into your projects regardless if they are mentioned in the specific pattern instructions.

 Technique 1: Shaping Bias

After watching this simple technique, you may be wondering "When would I use this?". Here are a few examples of the benefits of a curved bias strip sewn into a garment.

• The Abbey Road Dress design features a curved neckline facing. The raw edge is finished with a narrow bias strip. This is both a functional design element and a bit of a decorative detail to add some "surprise & delight" too! Pressing the bias strip into a curve before sewing it to the edge of the facing make this very easy to do. Using a lightweight cotton lawn for this bias strip also allows for the fabric to shape smoothly without any bulk. It's a nice finishing touch!

Technique 1: Easing A Sleeve Cap

After watching this simple technique, you may be wondering "When would I use this?". Here are a few examples of designs that would benefit from this preparation step.

• The Liberty Jane catalog includes many classic jacket patterns that look great made in wool fabric. The Piccadilly Peacoat and Le Marias Jacket patterns are two great examples. Using this technique to press the curve into the sleeve cap will allow you to set the sleeve smooth and evenly!
• This is Step #34 in the Piccadilly Peacoat pattern instructions. This is the point at which you could insert this technique to "ease the sleeve" into the armscye with a bit more accuracy. To do this, simply sew a few rows of gathering stitches into the sleeve seam allowance, follow the example in the video to press the curve into the sleeve cap. Then continue with Step #35 to attache the sleeve to the coat body.

 Technique 1: Setting Pleats

There are many designs on larougetdelisle that feature pleating! I encourage you to think about using this method to set your pleats when you are working on any of these designs. You can use this method with wool or any other type of fabric. This is a basic pleat setting exercise. We also have a full course dedicated to Sewing Perfect Pleats if you're interested in mastering these skills even further, I encourage you to refer to it or check it out!

Patterns referenced in this post:

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Pressing Matters Part 2! 

This week we continue on the topic of pressing with a look at the maintenance and care of our irons. A brand new clean ironing board cover isn't going to do you much good if your iron is dirty... so let's take a little time to tend to our irons. Shari has done her research and tried many different things to solve the common issue "How do I get the gunk off my iron?". She also discovered something new and is excited to share this fun little tib-bit with the group in the video posted below!

 How To Clean Your Iron Inside and Out:

Supply List: 

• Eraser Sponge – These are really handy for day-to-day cleaning and common scorched-on stains.
• Old Towels and Rags – Your cleaning rags will get stained, so don't use your best towels!
• Toothpicks – this is to help remove build-up from the steam holes.
• Distilled Vinegar – Distilled vinegar is by far one of my favorite cleaning products for most household surfaces. It's acidity cuts through all kinds of gunk and grime, yet it is safe enough to eat. It is pretty much my go-to household cleaner. No worries about poisoning a kid or pet or polluting our environment. The biggest complaint is the pickle smell. If you like pickles that isn't much of a problem, but if you don't... the smell dissipates quickly, especially if you have a nice smelling candle burning or some essential oils going in the background.
• Baking Soda – Baking soda is my second favorite cleaning product, especially when paired up with white vinegar. Used on a damp cloth, it works great as a non-abrasive scrub on most solid surfaces. Mix it with vinegar and the exciting bubbly reaction makes for a pretty powerful duo.
• Acetaminophen tablet – Use the solid white capsules. This works great to break down the most stubborn gunk.
• Filtered Tap Water – Filtered tap water is the best water to use in your iron. Consider investing in a filtered water pitcher so you will always have plenty on hand.

Clean the Outside of Your Iron

A build-up of grime on the sole plate of your iron not only looks bad, but can cause stains on your fabric as you iron. To minimize normal day-to-day build-up, regularly take the time to wipe your cool iron down with a little white vinegar or an eraser cleaning sponge. Sometimes, however, there will be that project that really gets your iron dirty. Starches leave a scorched film, iron-on adhesives leave a gunky mess, and, in my case, some mystery fibers from a bargain felt pressing mat left a gritty residue that melted and stuck hard and fast to my sole plate.

For this iron cleaning job, a quick wipe down with vinegar or an eraser sponge isn't going to cut it. Because I am not sure what it is that is stuck to the bottom of my iron I am going to start with the least aggressive cleaning methods and work my way up. To help break down the grime, start by soaking an old towel in vinegar and laying your cool iron on it for a half hour or so. You may want to lay down a layer of plastic underneath your wet towel to protect your work surface. Now, just walk away and let the vinegar do the work. After letting the iron sit on the vinegar, plug your iron in, turn off the steam, and turn the heat down to medium. Now, just take a little time ironing over the vinegar-soaked towel to rub off the gunk. Repeat as needed. This works best for removing general types of grime that has built up on your sole plate.

If this doesn't do the trick, time for a little baking soda and some elbow grease. Wet a rag with vinegar and then sprinkle with baking soda. Now, give your sole plate a good scrub with plenty of elbow grease. The vinegar and baking soda work together to break down the build-up and the mild abrasive of the baking soda helps to scrub it away.

Soak a fresh cloth in plain vinegar and wipe away any remaining baking soda, squeezing some of the vinegar into the steam holes to help dissolve away any remaining baking soda. As you work, use a toothpick to remove any baking soda or dirt from the steam holes.

Still got gunk? Don't be tempted to use an abrasive scrubbing pad or you risk scratching the surface of your iron. Dirt and grime adhere more easily to scratched and scuffed surfaces. Instead, let's pull out the BIG guns in the form of a little acetaminophen tablet. Yes, that is correct, the solid white pill that you take when you have a headache. This works particularly well for removing iron-on adhesives and scorched residue from synthetic fibers that are not easily broken down by vinegar and baking soda,

Simply turn your iron on high. When it is hot, carefully rub the tablet over all the stubborn spots. The acetaminophen will start to melt and break down even the most stubborn scorched-on debris. Carefully wipe the residue off with a clean cloth as you work. When you are all finished, give your iron a final wipe down with vinegar or an eraser sponge to remove any remaining residue.

Inside Your Iron

The sole plate isn't the only place on your iron that harbors dirt and grime that can damage your fabric.

Using the wrong kind of water in your iron will cause mineral deposits to build up inside your iron that will eventually work their way out of the steam holes onto your fabric. Combined with a bit of steam or spray, these deposits can leave stains on your fabric.

More often than not, it is recommended that you only use Distilled Water in your iron to prevent mineral deposits. While this sounds reasonable, many irons are designed to be used with tap water and distilled water may actually damage the inside of your iron. This may seem counter-intuitive, but what happens is that the pure water molecules in distilled water are mildly acidic and over time will start to corrode the metals parts inside your iron which will in turn cause the very mineral deposits you are trying to avoid.

Avoid De-ionized Water. It is full of positively-charged ions that don't mix well with any electric device.

The minerals in Spring Water may be good for your health, but are not good for the inside of your iron.

The safest water to use in your iron is Filtered Tap Water. Invest in a simple filtered pitcher and you will have an endless supply at your fingertips. Even better, if you have a refrigerator with an icemaker and water dispenser, most refrigerator filters will even filter out the sodium that’s present from water softeners.

So, if you have been using the wrong kind of water and you are being troubled with mineral deposits that are causing your iron to spit, dribble, and stain your fabric, what is one to do??

Like we did with cleaning the sole plate of your iron, let's start with the least aggressive options and move our way up, if necessary.

Lay an old towel on your work surface to catch any dirt from your iron.

Empty your iron reservoir out and fill with clean filtered tap water. Turn your iron on high and pump the manual steam button to get as much steam running through the iron as possible. As you do this, move the steam control lever back and forth to dislodge build-up from the gaskets inside your iron.

Do this repeatedly until your iron stops spitting dirt and water and steams evenly.

If this doesn't do the trick, consider pulling out the big guns... a half and half mixture of distilled vinegar and filtered water. BEFORE YOU DO THIS however, be sure to refer to your user's manual. Some irons may specifically suggest cleaning your iron with vinegar, but others will not. Although most irons have a protective coating inside the water chamber, the acid in the vinegar may eventually break down some linings and corrode your iron's metal innards. Unless your iron specifically recommends using vinegar to clean the inside, use this cleaning method as a last resort before replacing your iron altogether.

Fill your water reservoir with the vinegar mixture. Turn your iron on high and pump the manual steam button to get as much steam running through the iron as possible. As you do this, move the steam control lever back and forth to dislodge build up from the gaskets.

After a little bit, dirt and mineral deposits will start to dissolve and come out of the steam holes. Repeat, as necessary.

Once you have emptied out all the vinegar mixture fill your reservoir with plain filtered water and pump the manual steam button to get as much steam running through the iron as possible to clear out any remaining vinegar.

Repeat this process until the smell of vinegar disappears and your steam is clear of any soil or mineral deposits. Use a toothpick to fish out any deposits that get clogged in the steam holes as you work, being careful not to burn yourself in the process.

Now that your iron is clean, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Wipe down the sole plate of your iron regularly and only use filtered water from here on out to keep your iron clean inside and out.

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the topic - Pressing Matters! For this topic, I'm excited to announce that Shari Fuller, the designer of the Thimbles and Acorns brand, will be my co-host! We are also joined by designer Melinda (Melody Valerie Couture) with a look at all the essential pressing tools. Pressing is an essential skill to master and will really make a difference in how your finished garments and projects turn out! I encourage you to follow along and glean as much as you can from the wisdom and experience of these amazing seamstresses!

The posts will include a lot of information, but rest assured, we will consolidate all of this into a nice & neat PDF that you can download at the end of the month. 

Also - many of us don't have immediate access to all the supplies needed to make the ironing board cover. Don't stress! Order what you can and come back to this later in the month to get it finished up - there's no rush!

The topic will be divided into four sessions:

• Part 1: Topic Overview, Essential Tools, and The Ironing Board Makeover
• Part 2: How To Clean Your Iron
• Part 3: Pressing Techniques Demonstrated
• Part 4: How To Make A Portable Pressing Mat

It's going to be a fun course! Are you ready? Let's go...

Suggested Pattern: Grab the Love U Bunches Pressing Tools pattern. Use this pattern to make a doll scale ham and sleeve roll!

What is Pressing and Why is it so important?

Pressing is one of the most integral parts of garment construction. It combines heat, moisture, and pressure to permanently shape the garment. In contrast to home ironing (a sliding motion designed to remove wrinkles), pressing is primarily an up and down motion, intended to permanently shape the garment during construction. After pressing, let the fabric cool and dry before moving it; this is part of what makes the pressing permanent.

First, pressing will help flatten and "set" a seam. Applying pressure, heat, and moisture to a seam you have just sewn will interlock the stitches more permanently, giving it extra strength. This is also called “melding” a seam.

Pressing also allows you to shape fabric in a way that cutting and stitching alone cannot. For example, easing a wool sleeve cap, helping shrink a bias edge that is stretching excessively, stretching a seam that has puckered, and shaping bias strips into curves before sewing are all common pressing operations. Pressing can also help two dissimilar layers conform to each other.

All fabrics respond differently to pressing; some fabrics, like wool, are very responsive to moisture, where others, like satin, do best with a dry iron; cottons and linens can withstand higher heat than polyesters or silks, and so forth. It's best to practice on a sample piece of fabric first to determine what combination of heat, pressure, and moisture will be most effective.

In short, pressing is an essential step in garment construction; shaping the fabric with heat and pressure plays nearly as large a role in shaping the garment as the actual sewing does.

Essential Pressing Tools 

A good quality Steam Iron. There are many different tools available to apply heat, pressure and moisture to your project. Professional workrooms often use heavy ‘gravity feed’ irons (the term refers to the tank of water suspended above the iron; gravity provides a constant source of water for steam), but for doll couture, the heat and weight of a home iron will usually be sufficient. Tiny irons can be helpful for pressing extremely small spaces. However, they often don’t get as hot as the conventional home iron, and don’t have enough mass to flatten the fabric effectively. 

Update from Cinnamon :) I have a mini Oliso iron and it's pretty great! It gets very hot and does have a nice quality steam function. So if you're looking for a good quality mini iron, you can check them out here: Oliso Mini Project Iron 

Other important pressing tools include a tailor’s ham, a sleeve board, a sleeve roll, and a clapper or point presser of some sort. For dolls, I like to use a 3/4" dowel wrapped in muslin as a sleeve roll; it works wonders. I also have other unfinished dowels of various sizes that work like 'seam sticks'. Scroll all the way to the bottom of this post to follow a tutorial for making your own Dowel style doll scale sleeve roll.

It's great to have a variety of surfaces to press on; a standard ironing board, a sawdust-stuffed ham, and unfinished hardwood (such as a dowel or a point presser) will all absorb moisture differently. Some of these surfaces, such as the ham, can be pinned into, to provide extra control.

If you will be sewing velvet regularly, you may wish to invest in a velvet board. These small boards are covered with short metal spikes that support the nap of the velvet while pressing. While velvet boards are expensive, they practically eliminate the risk of accidentally crushing the nap. 

Pressing Cloths. No pressing setup would be complete without at least one press cloth. Press cloths serve to protect the fabric from any shine marks caused by the iron, and distribute the iron’s heat more evenly. It's great to have a variety of press cloths available, but if you must choose one, a simple piece of silk organza will work wonders. The silk can withstand a fairly high pressing heat, and it's transparent enough to see the project underneath. Cotton muslin is another good choice for a press cloth. 

There are as many ways to combine these pressing tools with heat and moisture, as there are couture sewers. With time and experimentation, you’ll find which pressing tools work for you, and which will help you press each part of your garment successfully.

What about Your Pressing Surface? 

Shari has a few thoughts and a fun tutorial to share to help us with this question!

Taking the time to press each and every seam while you sew is the key to producing a professional finish and a proper pressing surface is just as important as the iron you use. It is high time I replace my ironing board cover. Not only does it have a large tear in the middle of the pressing surface, it has become soiled from years of use which is causing me to stain some of my fabrics when I use extra steam.

The cover in our tutorial is quick and easy to make and will work for any size or shape board. Whether you need to recover a standard ironing board, a smaller sleeve board, or even a wood T.V. tray, this project will work for you.

How To Make A New Ironing Board Cover:

Supply List:

To make the ironing board cover in our tutorial, you will need to collect a few supplies. This list is a lesson in itself, so read it carefully to help you choose your materials wisely.

Cover and Backing Fabric – Enough to cover the top and sides of your ironing board plus an additional 3” - One piece for the cover and one piece for the backing.

• This fabric should be 100% cotton in a medium weight. Avoid synthetic or synthetic blend fabrics since they have a tendency to trap moisture and don't hold up well to the heat of an iron. Trapped moisture and scorched fabric work together to transfer stains to the fabric you are pressing!

• Choose a fabric with a minimal texture to avoid pressing textures into your fabrics.

• Unbleached muslin is the most practical choice if you are concerned about transferring dyes or other chemicals to your fabrics.

• If you prefer something a bit more exciting, choose a quality quilting fabric in whatever color or print suits your fancy.

• For a durable stain-resistant cover, a Teflon™ coated fabric is the best choice. Teflon™ coated fabric can be found at most large fabric stores or online.

Batting – Enough to cover your ironing board and wrap the edges plus an additional 3”. Batting helps to smooth out your pressing surface and provides an airflow that helps the steam and heat from your iron work more effectively.

• The best choice is a wool blanket, washed and dried so it won't shrink later on. The fibers of the blanket are designed to be more stable and less prone to pull apart over time. Wool is naturally heat resistant and does not hold moisture as much as cotton or synthetic fibers. This not only reduces the risk of stains in the fabric you are pressing, but also helps to improve the effectiveness of the steam from your iron. No wool blanket available? Use a couple of layers of wool felt, found on the bolt in larger fabric stores or felt a heavy wool coating by washing in your washing machine in hot soapy water and then running it through the dryer to finish the job.

• Cotton batting is the second best choice. As a natural fiber, it is heat resistant and doesn't hold moisture as much as a synthetic fiber. Cotton batting is pretty thin, so you will probably need to use a couple of layers to get the cushion you want.

• Avoid synthetic or foam batting as they trap steam and are prone to break down from the heat of the iron which could cause stains on the fabric you are pressing.

Drawstring - A length of 3/8” wide elastic a little shorter than the circumference of your ironing board OR 1/4” cotton cording a little longer than the circumference of your ironing board. If using cording, a toggle would be a good idea to help cinch up the cording on the ironing board – these can be found with the buttons at the fabric store or can be commandeered from an old sweatshirt or jacket.

Thread

Scissors

Ruler

Pencil

Pins

Safety Pin

… and, of course, the Ironing Board you would like to cover!

To get a nice professional finish when you are sewing, one of the most important things you need to do is take the time to press each and every seam. However, if your tools aren't in tip-top shape, you may end up sabotaging all your efforts. A dirty iron or ironing board cover can stain your fabric and a damaged work surface may introduce distracting creases. A couple of years ago, I inherited a wonderful ironing board from my mother-in-law. It isn't pretty to look at, but boy is it solid. The wide work surface makes it easy to carefully lay out larger items and the wide footing keeps it steady while I am working.

I love this ironing board, but it is in dire need of refurbishing. The first problem I want to take care of is the feet. Yes, the feet. Over the years the rubber caps have dried out and have a tendency to fall off while I am working - which isn't too good for my wood floors. This is a super easy problem to fix. Just measure the diameter of the feet and pick up a new set of end caps at your local hardware store or order some online. There are many different types of end caps to choose from. I'd pick a non-marking rubber as they will be kinder to your floors and the rubber will help them stay on and keep your ironing board more stable. Simply pop off the old caps and slip on the new... if only every fix was so easy!

Now, let's take a look at the top of my ironing board. Over the years, mom just put fresh covers over the worn ones. While this might have provided a little extra cushion, the soil from the older covers eventually made its way to the surface. Whenever I use extra steam or the sprayer, these soils have a tendency to stain the fabric I am pressing. I could simply purchase an ironing board cover, but ironing boards come in all shapes and sizes making it difficult to find a cover that fits nicely. Also, store bought covers are usually made with materials that don't work well with your iron. The proper fit and choice materials of a custom made ironing board cover will greatly improve your pressing results.

Making a perfect ironing board cover is a snap, so let's give it a go together.

• To make the pattern for your ironing board cover, simply lay your cover fabric right side down on a large table or a clean solid surface floor.

• Turn your ironing board upside down on the fabric.

• Measure the side edges of the ironing board and add an additional 1 1/2” for the seam allowance and casing. Use a ruler to mark a line that distance from the edge of the ironing board.

• Cut our your ironing board cover and use it as a pattern to cut out your backing and batting.

• Lay the cover and backing pieces right sides together over the top of the batting. Use plenty of pins to keep the batting from shifting while you sew.

• Beginning at the back end, stitch through all three layers with a 1/2” seam allowance. Leave 3” open at the back for turning.

• Trim the batting close to the seamline to reduce the bulk in the casing. Not need to clip the curves as that will weaken the seamline and bulk from the seam allowance won't be an issue when the cover is drawn tight over the board.

• Turn the cover and backing right side out so that the batting is inside. Press, following the seamline.

• Stitch the opening closed, leaving 1/2” open for the drawstring.

• Topstitch 5/8” from the edge to form a casing.

• The opening for the casing can be left as is, or you can secure the folded edges with a whipstitch, blanket stitch, or buttonhole stitch.

• Use a safety pin to secure one end of your elastic or cord to the outside of ironing board cover to prevent it from being pulled through. Attach another safety pin to the other end of the elastic or cording. To strengthen the end of the elastic fold the end under 1/4” and attach the saftey pin through both layers.

• Use the safety pin to carefully work the loose end of the elastic or cord through the casing.

• Put the cover on your ironing board and draw up the elastic or cording to fit.

• Pull the sides snugly around the ironing board to get it to lay as flat as possible and smooth out any puckers along the edges with your hands. The cover probably won't lie perfectly flat at this point, just get it to lie as smoothly as possible. Tie off the elastic and trim off the excess, letting the knot slip inside the casing. If using cording, tie the ends in a bow and secure with a double-knot or use a toggle to cinch up the ends.

• To take care of any ripples on the ironing board cover, turn your iron on high and press the ironing board cover with plenty of steam. The heat and steam will constrict the fabric and batting to give it a nice flat even surface

• The nice thing about this cover is that it is reversible. If your cover gets soiled or you just need a background change for a photo shoot, simply pop off the cover and turn it around.

Bonus Tutorial Project

How To Make A Dowel Style Doll-Scale Sleeve Roll:

• Purchase or find a hardwood dowel of an appropriate size for your doll (3/4" for American Girl, 1/4" for Ellowyne, &c.) It should slip easily inside a sleeve, without too much extra room. Be sure the dowel is unfinished; paint or varnish may transfer to fabric during pressing.
  
• Cut the dowel to a workable length -- between 8 and 12 inches.
  
• Wrap the dowel in clean muslin. You can wrap one layer and slipstitch the muslin to
  itself, or you can staple the muslin to the dowel and wrap it multiple times for a different
  tool.
  
• If you choose to staple the muslin, make sure the staples go fully into the dowel, and that
  you wrap enough layers of muslin over the staples to adequately pad them. Any unpadded staples will result in shine marks, lumps, and possibly even holes in your pressed garments.